Jeff,

My experience with removing the chrome/metal wrap is that it's not easy. Patience and heat, although you've got to be careful with the heat to not let it get to hot (I guess the same applies when removing plastic though).

I did have some COW Slingerland shells that the wrap came right off, almost like it had only been taped on. But they were really rusty!

HOWEVER, I've never removed metal from fiberglass. I don't know if that makes a big differance or not.

Probably not much help but thought I'd chime in. Great find!

Bill

Thanks Bill, I have some Pearl Forums to paint and put together, after they are done I will try to remove the wrap, or even considered painting the metal. Do you think these drums deserve to be restored to close to origional as possible? in other words, new chrome wrap and not a Paint job? Ever use the chrome wrap from Precission, it would cost me around three hundred bucks, worth it or not?

Jeff C

jccabinets!...

Just saw this post now... and with the SQUARE Fibes badges, that dates your drums from 1975 on. 1973 was still the RECTANGULAR Fibes badge, and there were THREE different badges actually. Your is the final/last before Fibes was sold. Regarding the Chrome Wrap at Precision:

It is NOT real metal/chrome wrap... it's plastic. As such, it will "look" GREAT!, but again, it's not real metal/chrome, thus it scratches very easily, and of course it won't be "correct"... but I doubt that THAT is even a sticking point for you in this case. I have restored a 1967/68 Fibes 690 COF prototype/Buddy Rich with the prototype throw/butt and original first design Fibes badge. It is part of my Buddy Rich snare drum collection, and it is RARE. I have only seen three of them, and one was Buddy's! Took forever to find this model for the collection. Anyway!...

I did in fact restore it back to OEM with REAL steel/chrome wrap that I had made specifically for this drum. It can be done!.. but .. it's expensive and incredibly labor intensive. Wouldn't be a route you would want to take on an entire set. In my case, I had to restore the drum back to OEM as this is a Fibes prototype/Buddy Rich... and plastic wrap wouldn't have cut it. I'll attach a pic of the snare drum.. ( note the original Fibes badge and prototype throw/butt, and the fact that the prototype was only 8 lugs, not 10! ) .. ENJOY! .. and BEST to you on your resto!!

Tommyp

You'll know if its steel if it has sloppy cuts and seams... the steel does come off, but you might have to use a higher setting on your heat gun (like 900F), and be careful not to burn yourself on the hot metal

Will post photos when i get to my computer

TOMMY, THAT IS A BEAUTIFUL SNARE DRUM. Tank you for the info, I kinda thought that plastic wrap would scratch easy. would it be taboo to wrap it with wood veneer, Im good at that. Its going to have to be re-done somehow, the existing is just way too rusty to save.

It would be interesting to try a different finish technique on the existing steel.A buffing wheel with a grey(fine)scotchbrite on medium speed,maybe on the bottom of the bass drum where it wouldn't be noticeable.To create more of an "industrial"stainless look.Not too much pressure as to make it "dig in".Or just sand,prime and paint,like a car.

I noticed that rim on the 14 also,looks like a double flange probably COB, 8 Lug? cool rim to use on a snare,esp a vintage one,or if you want a little more open sound or "spread"

Yes it is a Radio King cob rim

Well, I think most drums need to be restored to as close to original as possible, so I think the new chrome wrap would be OK. Yes, I've used it, only not from Precision; I've used it from Jammin Sams, and also have a full roll of it that I picked up off eBay (it's also Delmar wrap). And, I've got some more of it coming this week as I'm rewrapping one of my Pearl FG kits.

It is a PVC material and comes with a protective film on it, and you leave the film on even through drilling the holes. In other words, you leave that film on until you're actually installing the lugs and other hardware, pealing it back as you progress along.

Also, if you don't want to pay the pre-cut prices, it does cut fairly easy. I lay it out upside down and make my marks on the back side. Cuts with a good pair of scissors. Just don't get in a hurry and you're OK. And I know you're more-than-likely of the "measure twice -- cut once" mold.

As for other ideas, when I was a "cabinet guy" our company pushed the new doors, refinish the facing idea quite a bit. We sold a pre-finished 2' by 8' sheet of veneer with full 3M peel-n-stick backing. ANY wood and finish we handled. I've still got some of it, but not enough to do a whole set. I have used some of it to repair holes in shells, however.

I'm not a big fan of painting. I did take one of my FG sets to a local body shop and had them do me up an estimate. That's the set that's getting the chrome wrap... I don't know what it might be like to paint the metal.

Anyway, hope my ramblin' on helps!

Bill

Bill, how did you apply it, with tape or glue, what size of sheets. Im kind of afraid to remove the steel wraps thats why I was considering painting them, like a car. But then it would not be even close to origional. Thanks Bill!

Jeff C