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Fibes drum score Last viewed: 10 seconds ago

Posts: 351 Threads: 14

From jccabinets

But before you go out and buy steel for an entire drum kit, wait and see how mine goes as far as working with it. THe steel bends around the shell but takes some force to get the end of it flat. I might need to go to a metal shop and have it rolled.

Thanks for all the info. I'm pleasantly surprised how reasonable the cost is.

Regarding getting it to curve: I wonder if you could make the steel curve using a rolling pin and some gentle pressure. I'm not suggesting wrapping it around the rolling pin, but rather have it act like a rounded "corner" that you could pull the steel around. Gentle angle at first, then increase the angle with each pass until the desired curvature is achieved. Anyway, it's an idea.

Another thought about the seam: Positioning it under a lug will give it extra security.

Edit: I just went to the vendor: a sheet cut into 6 strips is $77. Booyaa!

Thanks again.

Posted on 13 years ago
#91
Posts: 229 Threads: 15

JC, this has been a great thread and I agree with every decision you have carefully arrived at including wrap removal on the 16. The biggy for me was watching the posts every day and thinking...no, don't do that...no, not that color...no, don't use paint...etc. and finally to quote tnsquint's thoughts "Fibes drums lend themselves to various chrome and brushed metal finishes. A vintage wrap or paint job just seems out of place to me." (tnsquint, hope you don't mind me quoting you) Bingo! Deciding to go metal was the RIGHT move. Your research has educated every member who has been following this project and has provided new options and possibilities for restoring drums wrapped in metal. I also agree with tnsquint's "car" analogy and think that you'll have another big decision to make once you wrap the 16.

Can't wait!

Posted on 13 years ago
#92
Posts: 2411 Threads: 55

tubelugs/jccabinets!...

This has been such a LONG thread.. ( which is neat by the way! ) .. that may I direct your attention BACK to post #13.. because .. I DID this EXACT type of restoration on a 1966/67 Fibes COF 690 prototype as played/used by Buddy Rich back in 1967. I have only seen THREE of these early model Fibes COF 690 snare drums, and one is mine, and one was Buddy's! They are RARE! Anyway...

I used stainless steel.. ( much thinner gauge than 24 ) .. had it mirror polished, and brought it to a machine shop and had it rolled as THAT will greatly aid in getting the steel around the drum. The seam should NOT sit under a lug as that isn't how Fibes did it, and you won't have a problem with the metal and/or seam staying down either as the pre-rolling "shapes" it to fit around the shell. Solvent type contact cement was used on mine with PERFECT results. The drum was left clamped for days though as I wanted to be absolutely sure that the steel would stay down... and it has! It's form and function is perfect as well as being pretty darn near OEM. The hardest part of the resto was the drilling. Stainless steel is TOUGH!! I used Carbide drill bits and went through two of them as the SS really does a number on them.. then.. each hole was cleaned/smoothed by hand using a rat-tail file. The results were spectacular, albeit a bit time consuming. The drum plays/sounds and looks incredible though. Gotta love Buddy. He was all over fiberglass BEFORE it even became popular! I'll attach a few pics for you to view. Enjoy!!

Tommyp

Posted on 13 years ago
#93
Posts: 6432 Threads: 290

From Tommyp

tubelugs/jccabinets!...This has been such a LONG thread.. ( which is neat by the way! ) .. that may I direct your attention BACK to post #13.. because .. I DID this EXACT type of restoration on a 1966/67 Fibes COF 690 prototype as played/used by Buddy Rich back in 1967. I have only seen THREE of these early model Fibes COF 690 snare drums, and one is mine, and one was Buddy's! They are RARE! Anyway...I used stainless steel.. ( much thinner gauge than 24 ) .. had it mirror polished, and brought it to a machine shop and had it rolled as THAT will greatly aid in getting the steel around the drum. The seam should NOT sit under a lug as that isn't how Fibes did it, and you won't have a problem with the metal and/or seam staying down either as the pre-rolling "shapes" it to fit around the shell. Solvent type contact cement was used on mine with PERFECT results. The drum was left clamped for days though as I wanted to be absolutely sure that the steel would stay down... and it has! It's form and function is perfect as well as being pretty darn near OEM. The hardest part of the resto was the drilling. Stainless steel is TOUGH!! I used Carbide drill bits and went through two of them as the SS really does a number on them.. then.. each hole was cleaned/smoothed by hand using a rat-tail file. The results were spectacular, albeit a bit time consuming. The drum plays/sounds and looks incredible though. Gotta love Buddy. He was all over fiberglass BEFORE it even became popular! I'll attach a few pics for you to view. Enjoy!!Tommyp

Yes I remember you chimming in a while ago. Thanks for the details on the proccess. I was going to have the steel rolled, I think its the only way to do it. I just could not find the steel any thinner than 24 guage. Thanks for pointing out the seem position, I was going to have it under a lug. Do you think I should start a new thread in the restoring section, or just keep this one going? I never would have guesses this one would go 10 pages.

JC


Thank you!
Jeff C

"Enjoy every sandwich" Warren Zevon
Posted on 13 years ago
#94
Posts: 2411 Threads: 55

From jccabinets

Yes I remember you chimming in a while ago. Thanks for the details on the proccess. I was going to have the steel rolled, I think its the only way to do it. I just could not find the steel any thinner than 24 guage. Thanks for pointing out the seem position, I was going to have it under a lug. Do you think I should start a new thread in the restoring section, or just keep this one going? I never would have guesses this one would go 10 pages.JC

JC!...

Yes, personally I think you should start a NEW THREAD to document your restoration progress. The majority of this thread was dealing with what you were trying to decide on which route to take.. and now, you have the route well mapped out! Many will be interested to see your progress! Also...

I wanted to show you that this can be done!.. and post #13 was back like 8 pages ago!, so I thought I would add a pic and supply a little detail on how mine was done, and perhaps save you some guessing. Good luck!... and get in touch if I can be of service on this. I think you might agree that my drum came out beautiful! Note the prototype throw... it never made it to actual production, but it WAS on Buddy's 66/67 drum too. Also, my seam location was put in the OEM spot... Fibes never put the seam under a lug. BEST!!

Tommyp

Posted on 13 years ago
#95
Posts: 6432 Threads: 290

Yes Tommy, your drum is way cool and one of a kind for sure. I do appreciate your help very much, your turned out fantastic! I assume the procedure is to get the metal rolled, glue to shell and drill the holes last, correct?

Thank you to everyone that lend thier two cents. I will continue the project in the restoring section but first keep an eye out for some lime green mij's.


Thank you!
Jeff C

"Enjoy every sandwich" Warren Zevon
Posted on 13 years ago
#96
Posts: 2411 Threads: 55

From jccabinets

Yes Tommy, your drum is way cool and one of a kind for sure. I do appreciate your help very much, your turned out fantastic! I assume the procedure is to get the metal rolled, glue to shell and drill the holes last, correct?Thank you to everyone that lend thier two cents. I will continue the project in the restoring section but first keep an eye out for some lime green mij's.

JC!...

Yes... you got it exactly right! Roll.. glue.. drill.. smooth/dress.. assemble... admire and PLAY!! Those are going to KILL once you get them finished, not to mention LOOK incredible and be BETTER than original! Can't wait to see 'em when finished!

Tommyp

Posted on 13 years ago
#97
Posts: 351 Threads: 14

From Tommyp

I used stainless steel.. ( much thinner gauge than 24 )

Snare looks good Tommy. Interesting throw.

Where did you get the steel?

Posted on 13 years ago
#98
Posts: 6432 Threads: 290

From tubelugs

Snare looks good Tommy. Interesting throw.Where did you get the steel?

Your not kiddin, that snare drum is awesome!


Thank you!
Jeff C

"Enjoy every sandwich" Warren Zevon
Posted on 13 years ago
#99
Posts: 10 Threads: 3

From jccabinets

Yes I remember you chimming in a while ago. Thanks for the details on the proccess. I was going to have the steel rolled, I think its the only way to do it. I just could not find the steel any thinner than 24 guage. Thanks for pointing out the seem position, I was going to have it under a lug. Do you think I should start a new thread in the restoring section, or just keep this one going? I never would have guesses this one would go 10 pages.JC

Hey JC,

I just found your thread. Im getting ready to start on my Rick Allen of Def Leppard Ludwig Chrome O Wood set.

I found a place that has 26 gauge #8 Stainless Steel.

http://www.mirroredstainlesssolutions.com/gauges.htm

-Don

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Posted on 9 years ago
#100
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