Hello once again, Phil!
- Does anyone know what is this oval hole with these tow holes in the middle top of the bass drum ?
-I believe that those are the remaining mounting holes drilled where an internal bass drum muffling device was once installed - look at your snare drum shell on the the side where a lever arm with a knurled knob is mounted through an oval plate which operates the angled lever on the inside shell - An identical lever control assembly was probably attached there on top of the bass drum shell to control a much longer lever arm with muffle pad(s) inside the bass drum, for the purpose of eliminating unwanted overtone frequencies from the drum heads during playing. It is highly likely that the mounting hole spacing from the snare drum knob assembly exactly fits the holes drilled on the top of the bass drum as well.
- I replace the shell for, I guess, the cymbal arm (same shell as BD leg, on the left of the lest pic, opposite of the tom support). But the hole is ridiculously small, about 7 or 8 mm in diameter. Is it possible to install a cymbal on a rod so fine ?? and how the cymbal will be fixed (just a thread at the end of the rod) ? All the pics I've seen have more strong rod with tilt adjustment.
- If you have the shell mount which accepts an 8mm long steel rod passing through it, you can then search and ask around until you locate some cymbal seat tilter attachments which exactly fit the diameter of the rod and attach with a wing nut or set pin. You may also find older cymbal seats made of solid rubber which simply slip down over the end of the rod and fit perfectly. Long ago drum manufacturers sold cymbal rods and cymbal stands separately from the tilters and mounts which were necessary to attach to them - so you will succeed in reconstructing a proper fitting cymbal holding arm. As long as the 8mm. rod is strong steel it will have no problem holding even a large diameter cymbal firmly in playing position. Sonor, Trixon, Tromsa and other German manufacturers all made the parts during the 1950's and 1960's you can hunt down to use. WFL, Ludwig and Slingerland from the U.S.A. also made tilters and rubber mounts from the 1940's through the 1950's which attach to rods like this, as did PREMIER of England. Just be patient, do the research, contact various collectors and websites through this site and elsewhere, and you will soon have that drumkit completely restored as original. Refuse to compromise and refuse to redrill or alter the original construction, for all parts and pieces still exist somewhere on the planet lying around unused. German origin drums from this period utilize one or more of the following thread gauge sizes for all mounts, lugs, attachments, and tension rods which you can find at most hardware stores should you need to substitute for original pieces during the course of your restoration: 6mm. x 1mm. / 5mm. x .08mm / 4mm. x .07 mm. / 8mm. x 1.25mm. / 3mm. x .05mm. and SONOR drums utilize 1/4 - 20" threading for tension rods and many other attachments.
Fortunately most all Asian import manufactured drums today also use most or all of these same sizes for their wing nuts, hex nuts, tension rods, etc. ! Hope I've been of some help to you. Best of luck and enjoy your search and restoration! Those drums will sound wonderful when you play them!