Mike; I've been wondering, how do you deal with the excess drool in your showroom? Drains? Or maybe an industrial dryer of some kind?
I have spitoons strategically placed all around the rooms...
Mike Curotto
Mike; I've been wondering, how do you deal with the excess drool in your showroom? Drains? Or maybe an industrial dryer of some kind?
I have spitoons strategically placed all around the rooms...
Mike Curotto
I have spitoons strategically placed all around the rooms...Mike Curotto
Ah! Vintage all the way!
I was thinking he had left over Black Beauty Shells turned into spittoons.
Laughing H
David
We all know that the top head for a Tone Flange Model has to be a bit over-sized and this creates a real problem finding a top head that fits. Well, I stumbled across a little trick that actually works. A previous owner of this drum cut 4 equidistant notches into the metal hoop of a Remo Ambassador drum head which allowed the head to fit onto the Tone Flange and still tune up nicely. I hope this little discovery makes your life easier when dealing with batter heads for a Tone Flange. I always welcome your thoughts, ideas and opinions so fire away on this one. Mike Curottops...3 more photos in the next post mc
Thanks for including the tip on getting the head to work on a little larger frame!
Cool1
Thanks for including the tip on getting the head to work on a little larger frame!Cool1
Glad to help, that's what this hobby is all about.
Mike Curotto
Beautiful drum!!!!
Lipskin special model?
Special is right, that is very very very special,more like amazing!
What a drum,too cool for words.Walking
Hello Mike,
I know this may be old business to you but I have recently procured an original tone flange for my Lipskin Special Model. It was the only thing missing, except now I see one brass tack is missing. So here are some pictures of the snare I have and I also have the matching bass drum which I was fortunate enough to find.
I see your drum has no badge and as you can see mine does. The little you said about the Lipskin model is all I know about the drums. I've had them for maybe 20 years. I see there seems to be no indication of a badge ever being on your drum. Now that more of these drums have surfaced, is that a common thing? I can't remember ever seeing snares without a badge...although I am sure they exsist. I have lots of drums I just no longer 'Live the Life' and am now taking time to finally put them all together.
Can you shed any light on this drum of mine, or more on your drum? You said you drum has the 'hub cap' type of tome flange. Mine has holes in it. Which one is harder to come by.
I've included pictures of the bass and snare. The latter 2 pictures are of the bass drum badge and the WMP inlay. I'd be interested in your thought.
Thanks, Les
Hi Les,
haven't heard your name in a long time! How are ya?
That WMP inlay in the hoop is very cool/unusual!
Blair
Hi all,Here's the latest to enter into the collection:1928-32 Slingerland 5x14 WMP/Artgold Tone Flange Artist Model/Lipskin Special Model A special thanks goes to my good friend, fellow collector and vintage drum shop owner extraordinaire Steve Maxwell for his help in brokering this snare drum deal. First, a little Lipskin Special Model history...and I do mean "a little" as I can't find squat about this company anywhere and for this I apologize but here goes. It seems that Lipskin Music was a 1920s-? drum store in the Midwest and the Lipskin Special Model was a "Private Label" drum made by the Slingerland Drum Company for this certain drum store. There you have it, the Lipskin history...thank you ladies and gentlemen! This drum has a lot of cool stuff to talk about. First I'll start with the normal points. This drum came to me in excellent-plus condition. I still wanted to take it apart and do my "Curotto-izing" to it. The WMP looked really clean but I was able to get an extra layer or two of schmutz off of the shell using Maguire's #17 clear plastic cleaner and #10 clear plastic polish. The solid mahogany interior just needed a light coat of lemon oil. I was extremely pleased that the Artgold hardware was in excellent condition and needed only a light lemon oil cleaning. The tension rods were greasy and grimy and needed a little more cleaning, I hit the threads with a very light coat of gold lacquer to keep any future rust/tarnish at bay. The rest of the Artgold hardware was in amazing condition and only needed a light lemon oil cleaning. Slingerland Artgold and Leedy Nobby Gold are the hardest finishes to match up when restoring so I was very pleased (and relieved) when I saw the original Artgold hardware on this drum. The Tone Flange (hubcap) is the heavy brass, non-drilled version and fit nicely onto the shell. The extension lever is stamped with the "Slingerland USA" logo of the era. So those are the normal aspects regarding this drum. Now for the unusual, not normal aspects. The WMP on this drum has the "Lipskin Special Model" engraved into the pyralin finish in the area that would have had a badge but there is no badge. Other than the 1930s Gretsch Gladstone Models I do not recall any other regular production wood/pyralin snare drums with any engraving into the pyralin finish. (There is one exception; see pgs. 4-5 in my book: VINTAGE SNARE DRUMS THE CUROTTO COLLECTION VOLUME I, Rare American Made 1900s-1940s.) The grommet looks to be original, is tight and shows no signs of being removed or tampered with. So here lies the potential for controversy; did this snare drum ever have a badge? My vote is no for a few reasons: 1. As mentioned, the grommet looks original and has not been tampered with...2. The "Lipskin Special Model" engraving would be redundant and most likely left out as the Slingerland cloud badge would also have had "Lipskin Special Model" on it which in my opinion would have then caused the area to look too busy...3. The 3 pt. strainer extension lever has the "Slingerland USA" stamp on it so we know that this is a Slingerland snare drum...4. Special order? Another quirk is the placement of small pin holes in line with all 10 tube lugs at the bottom edge of the shell only, there is also the same pin hole at the bottom edge that is centered to the grommet. The final oddity is on the top "bearing edge". I have handled a fair number of Slingerland Tone Flange Artist Models (and even a few Liberty Drum Co. TF Models) and it has been my experience to see brass flat head slotted wood or machine screws sunk into the top bearing edge (these allow the brass ring to "float" on top of the screws before attaching the Tone Flange). Well, this drum has rounded tacks (for lack of a better term) set into the bearing edge. These rounded tacks do the job but I think that the brass flat head screws provide a better surface for the brass ring to sit on. Was this an oddity, lack of correct parts, did Slingerland "job it out" for someone else? If this is a Slingerland snare drum then why change out the parts that Slingerland would use on their regular production models? We all know that the top head for a Tone Flange Model has to be a bit over-sized and this creates a real problem finding a top head that fits. Well, I stumbled across a little trick that actually works. A previous owner of this drum cut 4 equidistant notches into the metal hoop of a Remo Ambassador drum head which allowed the head to fit onto the Tone Flange and still tune up nicely. I hope this little discovery makes your life easier when dealing with batter heads for a Tone Flange. I always welcome your thoughts, ideas and opinions so fire away on this one. Mike Curottops...3 more photos in the next post mc
Mike, I know this is an older post so I am not sure what other information you have come up with but I wanted to share a couple thoughts. 1. I agree with others who have commented, I don't think that there ever was a badge, the grommet and the area around it are too clean. 2. With the round over tacks instead of the flat head screws, my thought would be that because of the rounded top there would be less contact with the sound ring and possibly have better resonance. How does the sound compare to other tone flange snares. 3. the pin holes in the wrap. Is the wrap glued down and wrapped right into the drum shell like so many other drum up into the 1970's? If it isn't then my thought would be that the wrap was cut to go onto a pre-existing complete shell and the pin holes possibly used as guides to drill the holes into the finish prior to being put on a finished shell. Just a thought.
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