If I could state my opinion...?

I would get myself some generic hoops & rods..(careful not to damage the threading)..

Even the T's n claws...put the orig set on the outter (reso) side ..& a cheap set for the batter side...If you can,....get some of the better Machined Colletts...!

Play the kit for a year or so..

If ya really like these...Look at re wrapping them...or remove the wrap & do a natural stain..

Then source the orig hoops,rods,T's etc....

Looks like a 1971/72 series....

I have a 1970 in a 20/16/13/12....it's my go to Rock set All day long.....

Hope this helps ya....

Current value would be a low of $400 to $600 tops..

I think the wrap color is killing it's True value...(personal opinion).. But that can be changed..!

Whats the deal with 1971 rogers? 69 was the last yr of holiday kick drums and toms and the first powertone kicks and toms came in that yr right? And then in 72 came the 9/72 so what was goin on in 71 between the two, were they the same as the early fullerton powertones but just prior to the 9/72 tag? Rogers from 64-74 were the same in badges, lugs and hardware correct other than the quality not as good as pre-cbs?

See, they could all be 68 right?

If by "worth it to spend time and money restoring," you mean for flipping purposes, I wouldn't bother.

As RnS said, the wrap is not sought-after, so even if you rewrapped the floor tom and gathered up the appropriate hoops and rods, you'd have for sale a partially-re-wrapped set in a non-sought-after wrap.

I like vintage drums for playing. I'd get some hoops and rods to get it all working, maybe secure the wrap on the floor tom to keep it from getting worse, and then pound 'em.

If you have no other kits, or if you have another, lesser kit, play these! If you have so many drums that people are whispering behind your back, fix 'em up and sell 'em.

Hahaha...ditto..!

Thanks for the comments. I definitely don't have a ton of drums. I have two other kits--a late 1960s Sonor teardrop kit and a 1980s Yamaha Recoding Custom kit. So, these drums are definitely not similar to what I already have and could add something nice to the sonic pallete. But, space is always a concern for me, so I may not be able to keep all three kits. I could quick flip these and make some easy cash, but I might regret that and wish I had kept them. I guess that's part of what I was asking--if I spend the time to hunt down some replacement parts, will it be worth it, sonically speaking? These might make a great gigging kit--wouldn't have to worry too much about scratches or dings and the like. I think I'll find some inexpensive hoops for them. Looked up prices on spurs, and cheapest I saw were in the $50-$60 range, which is a little pricey for me. But, I think I owe it to myself to at least give them a proper test drive ;)

If you need a great sounding drum set you don't want to worry about hauling around, +1 what RNS said. You can get Cannon rims and tension rods pretty cheap. If for the time being you don't want to spend the money for the spurs, go to Lowes and for $3 or $4 dollars buy a Aluminum rod in 3/8 inch size and cut it in half for your spurs. Get a couple of small hose clamps for each to hold them in place. Should work fine. Those are some great sounding drums. Turn the cracked wrap floor tom side towards you and no one will notice.

The bass drum hoop and rods will be a little more pricey. Put them on the batter side.

I recently found a Rogers kit in the same shape but fortunately had most of the extra parts. Another idea is to look on Craig's list for a cheap M iJ kit. I did this and found 3 toms and a bass drum for $30. I took the 2 13" cos rims , the 2 12", and 2 eight hole 16" Cos rims , and the 2 22" cos bass drum hoops with black inlay, which I just put away for another project, plus the cos straight spurs fit my Downbeat bass drum. I then sold the shells with the lugs and mounts for $25 and the bass drum trods on eBay. Made my money back and got some decent rims and parts to finish my kit.

The is a response to those who advocate stripping the wrap and finsihing the shells in a "natural" state. The outermost ply of wood on the best quality of wrapped Rogers drum shells is far from presentation grade. You can find some genuinely fuggly looking mismatched wood used for the outer plies of the drums with the same wrap over the wood. In my opinion, no matter how well you strip the wrap off, sand the shells, tint the clear coat, apply the clear coat (many applications), the finished project will still look like strpped, sanded, and clear-coated drums.