Precision has a 60's black oyster wrap that looks really good (link below). I've never wrapped a kit myself, but I do know that for the adhesive...all the experts call for contact cement. Good luck!

http://www.precisiondrum.com/html/wrap.html

Aaron

Precision sells the same wrap as JamminSam and in my opinion they are too

blue, but as a set they do look okay. Jammin recommends the tape, Precision only guarantees the wrap if you use the contact cement they sell for $35 a container. The contact cement gives a much more professional job

but the tape is easier if you've never wrapped a set of drums. Easier in that it is more forgiving when you make a mistake and need another shot at the wrapping. Start the taped end with the tape still covered, secure the wrap with some clamps about 5 inches down. Run the wrap around the drum and IF it ends up where you wanted it to, leaving the clamps on, pull back the starting end and peel the paper off the glue strip, press it down and remove the clamps. Tightly pull the wrap around the drum and clamp the other end about 5" from the end. IF it still looks good, pull the paper off the other end and secure the taped end down. They recommend you clamp the seam down over night.

Contact cement is a better way to go, IF you've done it before. And IF you want to use the contact cement, I have 2 containers that I bought from Precision and have never opened the second one and I fear it has a shelf life so I would like to get it to someone who will use it. If you want it, contact me!

This is just my opinion. I have wrapped probably 100 sets and used both.

Now there have been endless threads in the Restoring Vintage Drum section debating contact cement vs. tape method, and we don't need to start those lively discussions again here about how taped wrap muffles shell resonance, but you asked a fair question and deserve the opinions from those us who have used both methods.

Put quite simply, contact cement is more professional and yields a better finished product, while the tape method is far easier. Simple as that. Either method will produce equally beautiful drums, but if it's your first rewrap, go with the tape. It's far more forgiving if you make an alignment error. Listen to Drumfactory's advice above.

Oh, and make sure you order the correct version of Oyster Black Pearl. There's the vintage (Ringo) style and the later (bowling ball) style.

> Run the wrap around the drum and IF it ends up where you wanted it to,

Somebody called 'Drum Factory' should be able to do better than that! There is no, "if" if you prep the job properly.

1. Pick the set of lug holes opposite the badge. Back of the drum.

2. Place the wrap on the drum (dry, no glue,) with one edge covering -half- of the lug holes evenly, side to side and clamp that end down.

3. Make sure the wrap fits snugly to the shell and has an equal amount of wrap showing top and bottom. With just a little manipulation, it's easy to get everything lined up nice and neat.

4. Use the tail-end overlap edge (-un-clamped edge- the edge that will overlap after you place the wrap on the shell,) will be used as the main guide when you put the wrap back on the shell to glue it in place.

Un-clamp the first edge and then clamp and place the overlap edge (under the first piece) against the shell and -draw a line there-. This line is where you will now -start- your wrap.

Draw a line top and bottom (on the back of the wrap) using the bearing edge as a guide. If you start the wrap at the line where the original overlap ends, the seam, (first clamped edge,) will then become the overlap and fall dead center over the lug-holes.

5. Cover shell and back of wrap with contact cement and allow to dry.

It's a simple matter of following your own guide lines (butt the wrap edge perfectly to lines,) to get a good, snug fit and have the job go smoothly.

DO NOT USE TAPE. I don't care what anybody tells you, it is the equivalent of throwing a wet blanket on the drums.

Best of luck with the job. If you do a good prep, it should go smoothly and produce the results you expected.

John

I used precision drum co. out of New York for my last project, great web site easy to order and it came with easy to follow instructions, also make sure you use the recommended 3m glue it works great. I sold my restored Slingerland to the drummer from Maps and Atlases and he was very happy with the way they turned out. Good luck.