That looks like the "Atlas". Model number 1124, in production from 1966-78. Looks real nice, good luck with your sale!

James

For some reason I thought the Atlas had the tubular legs... these are flat, and straight.

Not doubting what you're saying, just expressing my, uh ..... ignorance, I guess!

The Atlas stand was produced with both flat and tubular legs!

Hi, no worries at all :).

I just double checked the Rob Cook Ludwig Book and according to that your spurlok is the Atlas model. The first spurlok with tubular legs (at least shown in the Ludwig book) is the "Hercules" (model #1131 - in production from 1978-1984). Hope this helps.

Good Luck!

James

I was indeed confusing the Atlas with the Hercules.

Thanks!!

Bowing

your hardware restoration is very inspiring. beautiful work!

mike

Thanks, Mike!!

"It keeps me out of trouble...."

;)

How did you get the footboard to look that great? I've spent the last couple of days cleaning up a Hercules spurlok and spent a lot time polishing the footboard with simichrome and turtle wax, but it doesnt look nearly as nice as yours. Any secrets you can share?

Thanks!

James

Sure I'd like to share. After everything you guys have given me.....!

Two tools that I use: One is a bench grinder with a brass wire wheel. The other, that I just sort of inherited, is a Ryobi orbital hand sander. The bench grinder also has some polishing wheels, but I can never get good, even results.

On this one, I used the brass wire wheel, just to clean it, but it also gave it a nice shine that had some texture in it. I liked that look -- but I do a lot of these restorations, and frankly, the 'stock' look is getting to be the same ol' same ol'. The wire brush gets in the nooks and crannies and cleans nicely. I prefer, though, to use a glass bead blasting cabinet. There's a blasting shop near here where they let me use it for a modest fee. We're on a first name basis! Bead blasting really gets it clean, and quickly, too.

But nobody seemed to want to buy it with that finish, and that's when I rediscovered the Ryobi in the garage. It uses 5 inch 'hook and loop' sanding discs. I started with a really coarse grit, like a 60 or 80, and worked my way down through them.... I had some 220 discs, but there were some even finer ones in the case.

Then I think I wet sanded this with a block, down to, like 1500 or 2000. I don't really recall. At that point, you may not even have to polish it. I think I just cleaned this one.

If you want to get really shiny... I called a local custom motorcycle shop to see who does their polishing. I take it to his shop. The guy there (who is quite a character!) polishes them for twenty bucks. They turn out unbelievably shiny. But chrome is a different story - once it starts to pit, etc, it's gone. I HAVE bead blasted some chrome pieces, and I think it looks cool, but again.... it may be a little to 'custom' for some folks.

In fact, I just finished a Speed King he polished, and I'll probably list it here before it goes on ebay. But I HAVE to sell some of these!

My next plan is to restore some Speed Kings that look great, but aren't "garage queens." In other words, do all the mechanical upgrades (and there's quite a few) but then use paint or something that won't look like crap after being tossed into the hardware bag. They'll look different, but they'll be awesome Speed Kings.

I use to restore mid-50's Porsche 356s -- lost a fortune -- but learned a couple of things in the process!

I'd be glad to hear others' ideas about this process, too!