Yes congratulations, I have an xp8 kit and love it. Excellent sounding drums.

Well, I'm full steam ahead on refurbishing this kit. Any good ideas how to repair a foil badge that is peeling up slightly? It's in the bottom center edge of the badge. When I try to smooth it out it doesn't go completely smooth...almost like the foil is slightly stretched or something. The corners are glued down well and don't move.

Also, is contact cement the best adhesive to use to glue a very small portion of the seam? There is a spot right in the center area of the floor tom wrap that I need to re-glue...maybe about 3"-4". The wrap is so tight I didn't even notice it during my initial inspection. I've read the 3m fastbond is a good product but I don't need a gallon of it.

I have used 3m High Strength 90 for this type of seam repair. Tape everything off, spray some in, let it set up, then clamp it down.

On the badge, a pic would be nice.

Yes, 3M High Strength 90 will work well, but like Ploughman said, tape off anything you don't want to glue.

I have found that the spray adhesives don't always spray straight, and don't always spray just what you want them to!

Congrads on those, You got some great sounding drums. How about some pics. I have a question. Did big R Fullertons ever come with metal bass drum hoops ?

Vibes........ the answer to that question ought to be a NO.

Thanks for the tip on the 3m product. I imagine I could pick that up at Home Depot?

Here are the pictures of the badge in need of repair.

What happens when you roll it out? Does it lay down? 1980 period badge. You might try a tiny bit of adhesive that you can inject into the bubble, and roll it down. Definitely tape off the shell because when you go to set the badge, some of the adhesive is sure to come out. I am thinking here of a tiny drop of SuperGlue into that void, and figure out a way to clamp it down. I do not think you can do much else without becoming invasive. Don't try this yet. Let me do it first. I have a badge not attached to a drum, and I have some wrap scraps from the period. I will get back on here about this tomorrow evening. Let me do this on something it cannot hurt.

Ploughman, thanks much for your help. The willingness to help and share information on this board is incredible and I am so glad I found it. Thanks to all.

When I press down on the badge, it doesn't completely flatten out. When I now look at the first picture it looks like the right bottom edge of the badge has moved slightly closer to center, which is more than likely causing the problem of the badge not wanting to flatten out. It appears that there is a slight glue mark at that location.

I have a cut badge serial D705634 stuck on one of the laminate cabinet doors in my garage. This is the third series of badges in the big R period. It is slightly dissimilar to your 1980 example. The first Big R badge had a thick vinyl backing and a "cellophane" like printed facing. (for want of a better word, I am unsure of the exact nomenclature to use). These badges number to somewhere below 45000. It is possible they went to 50000 and the remainder were destroyed. None have been seen above the 43000's. The printed facing had an issue with separation from the backing. Those drums you see with a blanked out white Big R badge with nothing on it, are from this run. All of these drums were built in 1975 and very early 1976. The second series had a better construction, with the vinyl backing much thinner. D600000-D610000. Third series, starting with D700,000 through 750000, were successful, but the facing was printed on the outside. Your 1980 badge has no vinyl backing. It is a true foil badge and the printed face is very durable.

The superglue worked on the D705xxx cut badge I used. It might very well work for your application. Do not get any on your finish, or on the badge face. And don't get yourself stuck to the drum.