The finish was available in 66/67+ it`s called Jet Black Lacquer.......Piano finish is what most call it, it`s not paint.
Ludwig had a black wrap and they also had black lacquer paint. My 66 Club Dates are black lacquer which is a painted finish.
Mike
Creighton wrote: I'm not getting how going to the time and trouble to strip the paint that appears to be holding just fine and spending the time/money to have repainted is going to add enough value to make it worth the expense/effort.
'Add value' only matters if the goal is commercial, reselling the drums. I'm approaching it like a player. He can make them look like new for himself to enjoy. Even after painting them, he'll get a lot more $ for the kit if he decides to sell them than the $100 he paid for them. The 14"x14 keystone club-date floor tom alone, painted or not, will bring in several hundred dollars all by itself. The 'value' is already there.
>Are Ludwig Club Dates worth more than the above costs when they can only be advertised as repainted originals???
In this case, yes. The kit will be worth -much more- than the original $100 he paid.
>Swing in the vintage car market is where too shinny to be original now frowned upon (about time).
I disagree. A 'quality' vintage kit that has sound shells and hardware and has been well re-wrapped is every bit as good, if not better, than a raggedy original one. Mojo is one thing, shabby is another. Sometimes drums need to be re-wrapped in order to be saved. I'm not a snob about re-wraps. Some really nice ones out there.
John
Ludwig had a black wrap and they also had black lacquer paint. My 66 Club Dates are black lacquer which is a painted finish.Mike
There`s nothing paint about lacquer. Different base, drying and flattening agents, and pigments.
Calling it paint is just accepted.
Creighton wrote: I'm not getting how going to the time and trouble to strip the paint that appears to be holding just fine and spending the time/money to have repainted is going to add enough value to make it worth the expense/effort. 'Add value' only matters if the goal is commercial, reselling the drums. I'm approaching it like a player. He can make them look like new for himself to enjoy. Even after painting them, he'll get a lot more $ for the kit if he decides to sell them than the $100 he paid for them. The 14"x14 keystone club-date floor tom alone, painted or not, will bring in several hundred dollars all by itself. The 'value' is already there.>Are Ludwig Club Dates worth more than the above costs when they can only be advertised as repainted originals???In this case, yes. The kit will be worth -much more- than the original $100 he paid.>Swing in the vintage car market is where too shinny to be original now frowned upon (about time). I disagree. A 'quality' vintage kit that has sound shells and hardware and has been well re-wrapped is every bit as good, if not better, than a raggedy original one. Mojo is one thing, shabby is another. Sometimes drums need to be re-wrapped in order to be saved. I'm not a snob about re-wraps. Some really nice ones out there.John
It`s no longer a vintage drum. If I strip a 66 Camaro down, cage it, drop in a 672cc motor with 3 kits, drop in a Superglide-4 drag transmission and a Posse Dif. with 24" big tires,....it used to be a vintage Camaro and is worth 100 grand.
Same if I remodel an old house, change the siding, roof, kitchen, bath, I modernized it,.. and increased it`s value, but it`s not antique.
It says Vintage Drum Forum,..... we`re supposed to stop people from doing that.
Tom,
Sorry your thread has gone in the ditch. From reading all replies a few times too not miss anything. That may very well be original paint. Was never a "wrapped" drum. Badge would show signs of buggering with if that was the case.
Wrapping a drum that was natural/painted from the factory opens a whole,nuther can of worms :-).
You got a great deal on those. Statements of going to time and expense to refinish that add value above the $100 paid are correct in fact. Leaving them alone and original they are worth well above $100 as well.
Don't know what you have for restoration stuff. If nothing. Try toothpaste and a damp old T-shirt to buff the laquer on the bottom of the bass drum. You should be able to see the shine possibilities.
We do like photo's of whatever route you take. Thanks, if you have the time !!
Creighton
Hey, I admire the passion everyone voices on this thread! I value all of your opinions -- I'm new to vintage drums and am excited to learn.
I still play modern kits (you can see my Pearl Masters MMX in the background of the first picture), but I'm developing an eye for collectible drums and want to make sure I do them justice. I do like a beautiful kit, so I'm not against bringing these babies back to life -- but I respect the traditionalists who recommend staying true to their history.
But I'm a sucker for beautiful natural wood finishes, and I really love the look of those drums Mitch posted...I'm not in any hurry, so I'll ponder this for a while. I'll definitely keep you guys posted on what I decide.
Thanks again.
Tom
But I'm a sucker for beautiful natural wood finishes, and I really love the look of those drums Mitch posted...
Hi Tom, thanks for the good words, your kit would look even nicer as the outer plies are maple, nice tight grain and no gouges ["birthmarks"] from wrap removal. You could stain em any way you want but I think an aged maple look would really pop with the nickel hardware.
Lots to be said for both approaches, refinish/leave original, but in the end it's whatever you prefer since they're yours and you paid only 100 dollars! :)
Mitch
Understand. Natural wood finish is my favorite as well. Bunch of Ludwig Club Dates out there so no biggie either approach.
Creighton
