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filling metal screw holes and re-drilling question Last viewed: 9 minutes ago

Posts: 2713 Threads: 555
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This 1947 Gretsch floor tom came to me with these leg supports.

The part that the thumbscrew fits to - the leg support - has stripped.

Has anyone here had experience with plugging a metal (I think it's Aluminum) hole and then redrilling - tapping?

I could go to a machine shop and have them plug the hole and then redrill it but that is going to cost me $100 or so I just know it.

Posted on 12 years ago
#1
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Forgive me if I'm wrong for asking but is that plastic thumb screw original to a 1947 drum? Yes things get stripped out over time but that thumb screw may even have the wrong threads and was just jammed in there at some point. Maybe in the late 70's. Hopefully someone else here can tell you what the correct screw and thread size is and you could get a Heli-Coil kit. They come with an oversized drill bit, a tap to make threads for the thread insert and, of course, the thread inserts. The hell-coil will make it stronger than it ever was before, too.

1981 Slingerland Magnum 8pc Pewter Silk
1971 Slingerland Avante 60N Lavender Satin Flame
1976/7 Ludwig Vistalite 5pc Yellow
1980's Ludwig Rocker 5pc Black
2004 Gretsch Catalina Birch Caribbean Blue
1998 Noble & Cooley Alloy Classic 14X4.75
1922 Bower Snare
Posted on 12 years ago
#2
Posts: 2713 Threads: 555
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Thanks.

Two thumbscrews, which includes the stripped one, are after market with very large diameter screw threading. One is a Ludwig thumbscrew....small diameter threaded screw...and probably much like the original thumbscrew that would have came with the leg supports.

I have a tap and dye set and I will look into getting some threaded inserts.

From Hemidemisemiquaver

Forgive me if I'm wrong for asking but is that plastic thumb screw original to a 1947 drum? Yes things get stripped out over time but that thumb screw may even have the wrong threads and was just jammed in there at some point. Maybe in the late 70's. Hopefully someone else here can tell you what the correct screw and thread size is and you could get a Heli-Coil kit. They come with an oversized drill bit, a tap to make threads for the thread insert and, of course, the thread inserts. The hell-coil will make it stronger than it ever was before, too.

Posted on 12 years ago
#3
Posts: 5356 Threads: 87
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Gary you can try a timesert. Better than a helicoil. I'm not sure if they are short enough to fit that hole though. You could always have the holes tig filled with aluminum and drill n tap again. I used to see that alumaloy stuff on TV but not sure it's around anymore? That's if they are indeed aluminum.

Glenn.

Not a guru just havin fun with some old dusty drums.
Posted on 12 years ago
#4
Posts: 6524 Threads: 37
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Use a magnet to see if it`s Iron !i

It`s a drum,.....Hit It !!

.....76/#XK9207 Phonic Sound Machine D454/D-505 snares !i
Posted on 12 years ago
#5
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From Kona

This 1947 Gretsch floor tom came to me with these leg supports.The part that the thumbscrew fits to - the leg support - has stripped. Has anyone here had experience with plugging a metal (I think it's Aluminum) hole and then redrilling - tapping?I could go to a machine shop and have them plug the hole and then redrill it but that is going to cost me $100 or so I just know it.

I'm always into stuff like this----not just on drums. -----and always trying to avoid , paying a fortune to fix a 10.00 part. Here is what I would do.

Drill and tap the hole to accept the smallest size plug, that you can freely drill and tap for your intended thumbscrew size. You can get the tap drill sizes online. Get a compatible piece of aluminum rod, about 1 inch longer than you need. File about 1/2"" of one end into a square, standard size, that will take an open end wrench. and thread it to the same thread. Put the piece in a drill press or lathe(might need a machine shop ,to do this but it won't be that expensive) and drill and tap it to your intended ,thumbscrew size. Clamp the squared end in a vice and cut the outside thread, the same as your hole.

Take your mount and very lightly chamfer the inside and outside of the hole, with a drill, being carefull not to go too deep---1/16" should do.. Clean up the threads with your tap.Turn your stub into the hole,about 1/16" past the inside of the hole. Cut the stub off,with a hacksaw leaving about 1/16" excess on the outside. Put the outside 1/16" on the anvil part of the vice. Using an appropriate size socket, on the inside edge of the stub, you can gently hammer it ,to mushroom the inside, into the chamfered relief. The outside will mushroom as well. Once the edges are tight the plug is locked. You will have to gently file and polish the outside edge of the plug. Clean up the thread, with your tap.

Taps and dies need lots of oil. Don't worry about expensive thread cutting oil. The stuff you put in your car will do on aluminum ,just fine.

Posted on 12 years ago
#6
Posts: 6524 Threads: 37
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The stuff you cook with is cheaper !i

It`s a drum,.....Hit It !!

.....76/#XK9207 Phonic Sound Machine D454/D-505 snares !i
Posted on 12 years ago
#7
Posts: 2713 Threads: 555
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Calfskin - wow! thanks for the detailed reply. I will probably do something like what you've suggested. I too do not like paying $50+ for a $5 part but sometimes having someone do it for the price - is easier than buying the part for instance on eBay....if you can indeed FIND the part(s)....which I highly doubt in my case.

My other alternative is to use my very nice Premier leg supports. The shell mounting holes do not line up. I have some beautiful Hickory that I can mount to the existing shell holes and mount my Premier leg supports to the Hickory.....which I can stain to match ...at least the shade....to the Maple shell I stained. Some options I guess.

Thanks again for the detailed message!

Posted on 12 years ago
#8
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From FFR428

Gary you can try a timesert. Better than a helicoil. I'm not sure if they are short enough to fit that hole though. You could always have the holes tig filled with aluminum and drill n tap again. I used to see that alumaloy stuff on TV but not sure it's around anymore? That's if they are indeed aluminum.

Cool info. I never heard of timesert but looked it up. It seems similar to Heli coil only its a solid threaded bushing. One is strong and the other looks even stronger. It's been a long while since I had to look into thread replacement options.

1981 Slingerland Magnum 8pc Pewter Silk
1971 Slingerland Avante 60N Lavender Satin Flame
1976/7 Ludwig Vistalite 5pc Yellow
1980's Ludwig Rocker 5pc Black
2004 Gretsch Catalina Birch Caribbean Blue
1998 Noble & Cooley Alloy Classic 14X4.75
1922 Bower Snare
Posted on 12 years ago
#9
Posts: 2713 Threads: 555
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I think it is 'cheapo' Zinc casting.

I took the parts to a machine shop today and it's going to cost me about $30 for them to rethread and add a Helicoil. Didn't see the Timesert post here until I returned from the shop.

I know the part is only a few bucks but I looked around and could only see them sold in kits or bags of way more than I'd ever need. It is a whole lot cheaper than buying new leg supports on eBay if in fact I could even find them....which I doubt I could. This way if I have the drum up and running by next week .....for $30 or so....I will be happy.

Thanks again guys for all the very helpful information here.

From OddBall

Use a magnet to see if it`s Iron !i

Posted on 12 years ago
#10
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