Any help would be appreciated.

Hey Bondo. I'm sure everyone has their own way of doing this, but here's mine. I start by taping the shell right along the seam to ensure that the area past the seam doesn't get scuffed and doesn't get any glue on it by accident. Then I remove the lugs that are just past the seam. I then lift the seam as far as it will open without making it worse and clean out the old glue as best I can using a solvent. I then scuff the inside of the seam with some sandpaper to give the glue something to bite onto. I then use contact cement (the kind that comes in a tube) and try to get it on both sides. I use a small brush and Q-tips if I need to. I hold the seam open for a while for the glue to dry up, then close the seam while applying pressure along it. I then take 2 pieces of wood and place them along the seam and clamp on both ends to apply pressure along the entire seam. I leave it like that overnight (probably excessive). Once done, replace your lugs, and you're all set. I've had excellent results and have never had issues where I've had to do it twice on the same drum. I hope that helps.

That's good. But really, good old fashioned wood glue is a better adhesive in this application, and will match closely the adhesive originally used.

Can we see a pic ?

Great advice. Thank you! I have more than one seam to fix. I will try one with the tube contact cement and one with Tightbond.

I would Blue tape the edges of the wrap on both sides, useing a throw-away stain brush, (spun out well dry)I would put contact cement on a scrap surface/container and load the brush, then brush it well into the lift (thin is better), allow to dry five minutes and hand smooth them down from the middle to top, then middle to bottom. Then useing a seam roller, again from the middle to top HORIZONTALLY and middle to bottom HORIZONTALLY.

Think it out and each seam will take six minutes with drying time !i Each time you re-use the brush, it will soften again unless an hour has passed !i

All great info and I will follow through. I know I just pictured the seam. You may have wanted to see the whole kit, sorry. Trying to do a million things today. A great find. I found this 3 piece Ludwig (w/ consolette), a beginners kit,

A Zildjian hi hats & other miscellaneous stands for $300.

The seam turned out pretty well but it would have been better had I gotten more cement ****her inward. Even where it buckles at the lugs it is staying down. The clamping definitely helped. This is the first time I tried this way so it should get better as I go on. There are more to fix on other kits.

Maybe it goes without saying but.. The glue to use is "Clear Drying" contact adhesive..

Note. PVA Wood glue is not designed for laminates.. it needs both surfaces to be porous to be totally effective..

Cheers