There are holes both in the circular 'dial' and one on the piece that holds it. Right now they seem to serve no purpose. Coincidentally, I'm having a hard time getting the rail mount mechanism to hold up my 13" tom.
Have a look, and see if something's missing, or explain what these holes are for. I get the feeling something's not right. It's on a BDP '65 Ludwig Classic 20/13/16.
If both pieces have the holes, you have a mismatched set of pieces. There needs to be a little post or "tooth" in one of the two pieces that clicks in to one of the holes of the other piece to make the mechanism hold in place. Take the whole unit to a drum shop to swap out one of your pieces with holes for a piece with the "tooth". Once you have the two compatible pieces, your tom will stay positioned where you want it to be.
Your "nib" is gone/filed down. It is on the piece that your L-arm is mounted to.
If you are worried about cosmetics, dont do this.....take it to a weld shop, and have them tig/spot a few welds to build it back up...then file it back down to make it fit. If they are "good" it will hardly be noticable.
The must be a good drum shop in the Atlanta area where they most likely have a parts bin with many pieces from rail conolette. I'd be amazed if they didn't have the piece with the nib or tooth or whatever we want to call the the little metal bump to fit into the desired hole in the corresponding piece. If there is not a shop near you, phone Rockin' Robin in Houston. Ask for George or Bart. I have done a ton of business with thes folk. They are terrific to work with.
The must be a good drum shop in the Atlanta area where they most likely have a parts bin with many pieces from rail conolette. I'd be amazed if they didn't have the piece with the nib or tooth or whatever we want to call the the little metal bump to fit into the desired hole in the corresponding piece. If there is not a shop near you, phone Rockin' Robin in Houston. Ask for George or Bart. I have done a ton of business with thes folk. They are terrific to work with.http://rockinrobinguitars.com/
Thanks for another helpful reply.
Sadly, most such places in ATL were swallowed up by Guitar Centers. There's a new place in East Atlanta that I could try. Atlanta Pro Percussion is one of the lone holdouts, but they focus on high-end MIJ stuff, and although they know a lot about vintage drums, they don't really keep stuff like that around. I get most of my bits and pieces from Philly Drums or Olympic Drums in Portland, but as of yet, nothing has turned up. I know Rockin' Robin. They have a drum that I want, but is overpriced. But thanks for the tip. I'll certainly give them a call. It appears to be a very cool place.
Thanks again.
Stephen
Try Home Depot for a length of small dia (looks like 1/8") metal round stock. Or even a solid taper pin might work. Once you get the hole and dial in the postion you like insert the pin through both pieces with a little locktight/JB weld. Won't be good as factory pressed pin but.....hopefully it'll be tight enough fit. You can always hand file the pin a bit.
Try Home Depot for a length of small dia (looks like 1/8") metal round stock. Or even a solid taper pin might work. Once you get the hole and dial in the postion you like insert the pin through both pieces with a little locktight/JB weld. Won't be good as factory pressed pin but.....hopefully it'll be tight enough fit. You can always hand file the pin a bit.
Thanks for the reply. The problem is that neither the dial or the hole on the support move. So the 'nib' or tooth or whatever you want to call the part that fits in the hole, has to be on the bracket that holds the L arm. That's the only moving part (rotating).
Thanks again.
Stephen
Yes that's where you insert the pin or "nub" that's missing. So it can fit/rest into the holes in the dial. On mine it's just a short pressed fit pin. Nothing tricky really. Unless I'm not understanding things right?
