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Trying to identify Gretsch drum model/year Last viewed: 3 minutes ago

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I see you are into "vintage" video games as wellStorm TrooperStorm Trooper

I like Drums...
1963 Ludwig Downbeat Champagne Sparkle
1964 Leedy (Slingerland) Blue n Silver Duco
1964 Ludwig Club Date Sparkling Silver Pearl
1966 Ludwig Super Classic Sparkling Silver Pearl
1968 Gretsch round badge modern jazz orange stain
1972 Slingerland 85N Pop outfit Light Blue Pearl
1976 Ludwig Vistalite clear
1981 Gretsch SSB Gran Prix Rosewood
1987 Yamaha Turbo Tour Custom Mellow Yellow
1991 Pearl Export Ferrari Red
Posted on 12 years ago
#11
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Those drums are in nice shape for SF!..Most SF finishes are toast by now.....

"Always make sure your front bottom BD lugs clear the ground!"
Posted on 12 years ago
#12
Posts: 6524 Threads: 37
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20/12/14 is progressive jazz, but you got 16x16 and your flame looks more like the 70 swatch than the earlier color swatch.

I would guess that is a progressive jazz outfit from 1970 !i

It`s a drum,.....Hit It !!

.....76/#XK9207 Phonic Sound Machine D454/D-505 snares !i
Posted on 12 years ago
#13
Posts: 6524 Threads: 37
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Do you have the snare ?

It`s a drum,.....Hit It !!

.....76/#XK9207 Phonic Sound Machine D454/D-505 snares !i
Posted on 12 years ago
#14
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Joel,

Based upon the theory that serial numbers were used in roughly sequential order, the serial number from the floor tom would place the drum from the 1968-1969 time frame. It is not unusual for the model number to be blank or very lightly stamped during this era. Everything else you picture (hex head screws, style of round badge, style of leg mounts, wrap) is consistent with this time estimate.

List the parts you need in the wanted section and I am sure many of them will be available. I will check, but I think I have a 20" hoop with Aqua Satin Flame inlay. I need a hoop, but have replacement inlay for a Blue Glass Glitter project, so I could be talked out of this particular hoop since it is an original match for your drum. I have the resonant side hoops for the 12 and 16 and plenty of small and large lugs. PM me if interested.

Rick

Collecting information about the following for ongoing research projects:
Gretsch drums with serial numbers,
Ludwig Keystone and B/O badge drums with serial numbers and date stamps,
Ludwig Standards from 1968-73, and
Ludwigs with paper labels from 1971-72
www.GretschDrumDatingGuide.com
Posted on 12 years ago
#15
Posts: 6524 Threads: 37
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That`s nice of you KC !i

"Make him an offer he can`t refuse"

It`s a drum,.....Hit It !!

.....76/#XK9207 Phonic Sound Machine D454/D-505 snares !i
Posted on 12 years ago
#16
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Thanks so much for all of the info guys! I'm glad to know it's actually in good shape. (though my crazy uncle drilled into the kick drum to move the tom mount *palmface*)

I appreciate your proposal KC, but (probably to everyone on this site's dismay) I'm not completely interested in gaining completely original hardware and such. I'm perfectly fine with slapping on some nice, newer hardware and making the kit sound great for practicing and recording.

I WISH I had the snare... but my dad inherited this set without it. Going to be in the market for one soon.

I do currently have an old gretsch metal snare (not from the original kit though) I've been using. It's not bad, I just prefer wood.

Posted on 11 years ago
#17
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Here's a question though, I really want to grab some dowells and fill those holes, but I wish I could so something about filling the holes to match the finish...... Any ideas on that? Is it possible to get a look-alike finish and cut out holes? I know the finish on this set isn't just simple veneer though, it's very thick plastic.

Posted on 11 years ago
#18
Posts: 2753 Threads: 132
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If the drums are wrapped in Satin Flame covering, that wrap is some of the thinnest gauge wrap that was ever made. It is not contact paper--it's cut to size from huge rolls of material. The simplest fix for the holes will look good without any effort. Get some round-headed chrome-finished carriage bolts to drop into the holes in the shell. Secure each bolt on the inside of the shell with a lock washer and a nut. You have already said that you're not interested in replacing all of the original features with original parts. This fix will be less noticeable than trying to fill the holes, and match the unfinished circles with little circles of matching wrap.

No matter how far you push the envelope, it is still stationery.
Posted on 11 years ago
#19
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Thanks for the tip! But I'll probably stick with wooden dowels for a tighter fill. And there's probably like 10 holes :/

I may not be concerned with original hardware, but I'd still like it to look nice. I think 10 or so carraige bolt heads sticking out the top wouldn't be too great :P

I know it's not possible to get ANYWHERE near seamless without stripping it down and refinishing (which I don't want to do, I kind of like the beat up, original finish. Adds character!), but I'd like to get something that at least looks nice.

Posted on 11 years ago
#20
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