I'm trying to determine what are the correct tension rod and claw
design for a 67-68 Rogers 22" bass drum? I have a parts lead, and
the guy is asking me which type of rods and claws I need. What
would be the correct parts?? Thanks. My set I recently purchased
had no rods and claws.
67-68 would be the flatter type of t rod. The Cleveland rods were much rounder, sometimes called bowties.
If the bass has a Dayton label (serial numbers 62000 - 112000) these are the correct T-Rods and Claws:
[Attachment: 105799]
Mike
If the bass has a Dayton label (serial numbers 62000 - 112000) these are the correct T-Rods and Claws:Mike
I've always wondered when this change took place. Are you pretty certain on this number range, Mike? I realize there really aren't many hard and fast guarantees with 60s American made drums.
I have a 22" Dayton bass drum with flat grey interior and a tag number 79377 that has bowtie rods and I thought they were original.
I've always wondered when this change took place. Are you pretty certain on this number range, Mike? I realize there really aren't many hard and fast guarantees with 60s American made drums.I have a 22" Dayton bass drum with flat grey interior and a tag number 79377 that has bowtie rods and I thought they were original.
Agreed....
I was gonna write something, but read yr comments...
I've had Dayton with grey shells at #70000 with Bow ties ...
Also had Dayton with grey shells at 85000 with the larger T handles..
So I think the answer laids in between here...!
Bop iT / Til U Drop iT.Gents
To make things even more confusing my kick drum is a Cleveland #54306 and when I got it, it had T-rods, it's a 66/67 flat gray kits so possibly it was shipped with them in 67 or a shop owner or someone else changed them.
One thing for certain, nothing is for certain in vintage drums
GentsTo make things even more confusing my kick drum is a Cleveland #54306 and when I got it, it had T-rods, it's a 66/67 flat gray kits so possibly it was shipped with them in 67 or a shop owner or someone else changed them.One thing for certain, nothing is for certain in vintage drums
Which kind of T-rods? Bowtie or the ones that are kind of flat and curve to a point?
Of course it's always a possibility that someone who may have owned our drums previously could have swapped or replaced tension rods over the years for a variety of reasons. Original owner kits are the best way to compare I suppose.
Sorry, The flat T-rods (not the bowtie type)
I have a hard time believing that during the change over in 66/67 that employees worried about what they put on the drums prior to shipping.
Would it make sense that when they changed shipping warehouses that some Cleveland tagged drums would have been moved to Dayton, where they might have been assembled and shipped, using the newer t-rods if the bowtie stock was depleted ?
Is it possible that for a short pierod of time you could order either until the old stock ran out ?
GentsTo make things even more confusing my kick drum is a Cleveland #54306 and when I got it, it had T-rods, it's a 66/67 flat gray kits so possibly it was shipped with them in 67 or a shop owner or someone else changed them.One thing for certain, nothing is for certain in vintage drums
For yr kit..The Bow tie T is correct....
It would have left the factory that way ..
Bop iT / Til U Drop iT.
Sorry, The flat T-rods (not the bowtie type)I have a hard time believing that during the change over in 66/67 that employees worried about what they put on the drums prior to shipping.Would it make sense that when they changed shipping warehouses that some Cleveland tagged drums would have been moved to Dayton, where they might have been assembled and shipped, using the newer t-rods if the bowtie stock was depleted ? Is it possible that for a short pierod of time you could order either until the old stock ran out ?
Sounds right to me...waste not, want not...! Was the motto of the 50s60s
Bop iT / Til U Drop iT.
