I did a set of 24" Slingerlands earlier this year, could not save the "rusted" metal inlay, so had Jammin Sam cut some Chrome wrap inlay. Came out very well. Rims had a couple of serious dents which I first filled with plastic wood..

Note.. plastic wood does not adhere to paint well, you need to take the dents back to bare wood with a file or stanley knife before filling.

Sanded back with 400 grit & then with steel wool/ Three coats of the satin black spray pack, and very happy with the outcome.

I made a temporary cross frame for the spray job, this I could spin by hand as I sprayed..see the pics , hope this helps..

Cheers

Perfect timing! I was about to post a very similar inquiry. My question though, is whether I should remove the paint with stripper, rather than sanding, as it was suggested in an earlier post, that the paint may be 'lead based'***. My concern here is the inlay. I'm doing a 65 Ludwig Downbeat, in blue oyster pearl, with both inlays, (mostly) in tact. Have them masked at the moment, as I hesitate to remove them, but I also don't want any stripper to damage them beneath the tape. Have sanded and painted in the past with favorable results, but since the lead paint warning, I'm hesitant. Have the rest of the kit all polished and ready to go - just have these hoops left to do. Will keep an eye on this post to check for expert advice. Thanks.

P.S. The 'lead based paint' was mentioned in reference to a 'duco' painted drum, so I'm not even sure if it applies in this case... anyone?

Well,

in my case there was no "flaking" of the paint, they were just well worn and dented.

If.....

My inlay had been salvageable, I would have masked it , lightly sanded & sprayed. If it is flaking though it needs to come off, but personally I would not use a paint stripper it may penetrate the masking tape & melt the inlay. Just take your time & sand them with some fine grit sandpaper & steel wool. I'd avoid "wet & dry" paper as it makes a mess too.

After the sanding get rid of any dust with a clean cloth & maybe an air gun or vacuum..

Not all the paint needs to come off.. you just need to remove the loose stuff & then establish a smooth surface.

Cheers

You don't have to remove the paint entirely, but you have to make a smooth transition. That will eliminate having to use too much paint.

Okay, actually I've done both methods - had done a few by masking and sanding, then a thin layer of primer, (to make sure paint took to painted, and unpainted areas equally) then a few coats of Rustolium satin black which worked great.

Recently did a pair that I wanted to try stripping, and leaving the raw wood. Only one of the two hoops had inlay, so I carefully removed it beforehand, and again had good results.

My main concern at this point is still the lead based paint issue. I survived my initial sanding experiences with no ill affects, but if it's a real health issue, I would not want to necessarily continue this technique on a continual basis. Maybe I'm just paranoid, but I have a few projects on the go.

How about this? I have a pair of 24" hoops that have been poorly repainted, and could really use stripping, but one appears to have inlay that's been painted over... any thoughts on how to remove paint from the inlay? Sorry - not intending to hijack the thread, but I believe it's all relative. Thanks.

I taped off the inlay, sanded with 220 grit sand paper and gave them three coats of Rustolium satin black paint (rattle can)

Yeah, great work!!

Congrats

Thanks guys - Great avice from all of you. I'll take some pics along the way and let you know how they turn out. I have 2 sets to do, a 20" set with inlays removed and a 22" set with inlays intact.