Hi,
I have only taken the snare wires on my 1960's ludwig acrolite off once since my dad purchased it for me in North Carolina from a pawn shop dealer back in the 1980's and with 2 rows of 6 holes to choose from on the strainer as shown in picture what is a general step by step process as to choosing the hole configuration for the 2 string ends to flow through and at the end what type of tying method is used. Thank you. Robert
There are a couple of different options. The simplest option is to just lace the string through the two holes nearest each end and tie a square knot for easy access. It's the easiest/fastest way to do it. The other option is too difficult to describe and is mostly just a fancier version. The idea is to create a situation of equality on both sides -'balanced" so that when the snares are disengaged, they are not tipped or tilted to one side too much. Additionally, when the snare are engaged, the tension will be evenly distributed in all planes.
To the best of my knowledge, the reason why that throwoff has the multiple holes is because that particular throwoff design originally came about years earlier during a time when snare wires were individually laced. As time went on and snare wires evolved, that particular part didn't get changed.
There are a couple of different options. The simplest option is to just lace the string through the two holes nearest each end and tie a square knot for easy access. It's the easiets/fastest way to do it. The other option is too difficult to describe and is mostly just a fancier version. The idea is to create a situation of equality on both sides -'balanced" so that when the snares are disengaged, they are not tipped or tilted to one side too much. Additionally, when the snare are engaged, the tension will be evenly distributed in all planes.To the best of my knowledge, the reason why that throwoff has the multiple holes is because that particular throwoff design originally came about years earlier during a time when snare wires were individually laced. As time went on and snare wires evolved, that particular part didn't get changed.
Thank you for the instructions and why the throwoff has the multiple holes.
Does anyone have anything to add to this 6 year old thread? I got the parts to put the Supra together, and have never used snare cord before. The puresound wires came with two pieces of waxy, green, cord and it doesn't appear that it would be prudent to tie/retie this stuff multiple times. I actually googled "how to tie snare cord", and this thread was the top of the heap! I feel better about taking advice from people I "know", rather than some random persona on a you tube video anyways. Bad habits are best avoided by never starting them!
Thanks for any additional tid-bits!
Does anyone have anything to add to this 6 year old thread? I got the parts to put the Supra together, and have never used snare cord before. The puresound wires came with two pieces of waxy, green, cord and it doesn't appear that it would be prudent to tie/retie this stuff multiple times. I actually googled "how to tie snare cord", and this thread was the top of the heap! I feel better about taking advice from people I "know", rather than some random persona on a you tube video anyways. Bad habits are best avoided by never starting them!Thanks for any additional tid-bits!
6 years old and I finally learned why the P83 has that particular hole pattern. Personnaly, I am so fed up with string that I am replacing all my P83's (and 85's for that matter) with P86's. I have had the best success with the red cord that Ludwig sells. I have tried Gibralter's snare cord and it stretches quite a bit. Purdie has a suggestion using construction cord and he seems to have success with that. I have tried two different types of construction cord, one stretched far too much, the other frayed almost immediately. I am sure I have not purchased the correct cord as Purdie's comments are generally spot on. There is a blog titled Snare drum addict and he has a pretty good post about dealing with snare cord.
Tying snare cords gives me fits, but I trudge on. Agree that the Ludwig snare cording works very well.
Good luck.
Stephen
Hi,I have only taken the snare wires on my 1960's ludwig acrolite off once since my dad purchased it for me in North Carolina from a pawn shop dealer back in the 1980's and with 2 rows of 6 holes to choose from on the strainer as shown in picture what is a general step by step process as to choosing the hole configuration for the 2 string ends to flow through and at the end what type of tying method is used. Thank you. Robert
I do something similar to what is shown in the picture, except I feed it through the first holes from the back and then loop around to the front, then tie the square not. Seems to work best. Ludwig's "red" snare cord works well as does Puresound's black cord. NOT the puresound blue wire stuff, but the actual black cord. Both the Ludwig and the puresound cord seems to stretch the least. By looping the cord like that first instead of just using two of the end holes, it seems to help the knot in the cord from slipping, which is actually what is happening when using just the two end holes, and not the cord stretching.
:2Cents:
I am not entirely sure that the knot slipping is what is perceived as stretch. Using the Gibralter string, I have tried various methods of routing the cord through holes. Instead of simply running through holes and tying, I have also tried running through the holes, crossing the ends of the string across the strainer to wrap around it, then bringing the ends back together in a square knot. Theoretically the additional friction placed on the string in multiple locations prior to the knot reduces the pressure on the knot drastically. Doing this has not solved the issue for me with either construction cord or Gibralter's string. Simply tying a standard square knot with the Ludwig cord works well for me without any additional friction. That is just my experience but that is also why I am switching strainers and utilizing fabric straps on all of my snares.
By the way, I would be concerned that anyone's wire snare cord (whether coated or not) would potentially damage a wood snare bed over time. I have no experience with this, but I bet the cable is harder than the mahogany, maple, birch, etc snare beds.
I am not entirely sure that the knot slipping is what is perceived as stretch. Using the Gibralter string, I have tried various methods of routing the cord through holes. Instead of simply running through holes and tying, I have also tried running through the holes, crossing the ends of the string across the strainer to wrap around it, then bringing the ends back together in a square knot. Theoretically the additional friction placed on the string in multiple locations prior to the knot reduces the pressure on the knot drastically. Doing this has not solved the issue for me with either construction cord or Gibralter's string. Simply tying a standard square knot with the Ludwig cord works well for me without any additional friction. That is just my experience but that is also why I am switching strainers and utilizing fabric straps on all of my snares. By the way, I would be concerned that anyone's wire snare cord (whether coated or not) would potentially damage a wood snare bed over time. I have no experience with this, but I bet the cable is harder than the mahogany, maple, birch, etc snare beds.
I have had nothing but trouble using Gibraltar's cord. Stay away from that cheap chinese crap. Ludwig or Puresound cord is the way to go. And yes, the puresound cable would be harder than the shell, this is one of the reasons I avoid the use of it.
Some guys just tie a loop around the bottom of the strainer, & don't go thru any holes at all. Getting the line thru holes is a pita, & looping around the strainer lets the string 'self-adjust', keeping the snares even. If you look at the acro in the original post, the snares are slanted, & the way the string is fed thru those holes, it can't move on its own..........marko
