i don't know this particular drum but

some older drums built to take slunk( fetal calf) heads, don't adapt too well to plastic heads. the calf seems to mould better, to irregularities.

i've had success using thinner ply snareheads and on occasion using gentle heat in that area to get better conformation, as well as using uneven tension, where the snarebed is a little too deep .

sometimes the tensioning sequence will exacerbate the problem too---maybe try another sequence : X across the snare beds , then X perpendicular to them , rather than +, +, ------------might help.

snare beds are one of those untouchables, in drum design---- they are considered to be an absolute design feature of a drum by most . in either manufacturing or remanufacturing, they can be made too deep, though and both the head and wires , can become nonconforming.--------the following is sort of off topic but related;

on parallel systems, where the wires go right across the head, the lift of the wires must be critically adjusted, otherwise the wires will use the snarebed as a fulcrum , causing a convex bow in them across the head( this can happen a little with the simple tension release systems too----especially with those plastic strap hangers). i have thought for many years that , on certain drums( mainly parallel ones) there need be, such a shallow snarebed or no snarebed at all. in such a case, though, the adjustment of the lift stop , is absolutely critical in order to maintain maximum exposure between the wires and head.

I know this may sound far fetched but, have you tried to bring the drum to your liking and then use a heat gun or hair dryer to disperse the wrinkles?

This works with divots and I`ve seen it take wrinkles in plastic out on other things. Your head is on a ring with no play in it after you put the hoop on and tension it. Kind`a like moving the plastic around.

i noticed that on some snares the bearing edges are off a little and that's why some heads don't seat right mostly on wooden ones

I was hoping someone with a Leedy or maybe one of the new Joyful Noise snares would ring in as the snare bed on Leedy's are pressed down into the rim rather abruptly rather than most other metal drums that have a gradual transition. I can try the hairdryer trick to see if that will take up some of the slack, but am not sure a head would contract that much, I mean the wrinkle on both sides of the snare drum at the bed is about as much as the dip itself created by these radical snare beds. I have also played with the pitch of the backing plate for the snare wires, bending them downward more to get more contact on the snare head, better results, but not really ideal results due to the wrinkle still getting in the way. Maybe someone knows someone with this issue and can ask them to ring in on this if they don't know about this thread? Any help is appreciated.

Ken

I think you should just crank the head until the wrinkles are gone.

... sorry I misunderstood.

If that is the case( pressed in abruptly), then what I earlier suggested is wrong. I originally thought that you meant deep but with a graduated bank. With abrupt ends, then need to try heavier snare heads that will help provide the graduation towards the ends of the bed. There will be less crinkle and some of the extra structure of the thicker head will provide a more gradual downslope into the bed. It will change the drums tenor somewhat but it all might work out in the end. it sounds like it will be hard to get absolute conformation at the bed though.