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66 Slingerland Factory Bearing Edges? Last viewed: 1 day ago

Posts: 1685 Threads: 529

Hello,

What I am about to say might be disturbing for some, but there is a good reason for it!

Does anyone know the "official" bearing edge cut from the factory on 66 Slingerlands? I am having the edges re-cut-ONLY BECAUSE some yahoo previous owner used them as single headed and the edges on the resonant sides of the drums are very beat up. I had to fix multiple gouges, cracks, dents and chunks with wood filler and sandpaper, and in some cases, lacquer to strengthen the wood filler on some larger areas. They are all structurally sound now and they all came out in good shape, but are certainly a long way from "factory" quality edges.

Since I will be using them in the proper, two headed configuration, I'll need to get those edges re-cut to even have a remote chance of them tuning up properly and sounding good. I know some of you like to use sandpaper to do them by hand, but this would be very painstaking and I would most likely mess it up anyway. In my opinion, bearing edges need to be precise and very even, and that would be nearly impossible for me and my very mediocre (at best) woodworking skills.

I plan on leaving the batter side alone, and just re-cutting the reso sides. I don't have any fancy equipment to measure the angle of the cut on the batter side. If I had to guess, I would say a single, rounded 30 degree, but that would be just a guess.

Thanks,

V

Posted on 11 years ago
#1
Posts: 197 Threads: 27

If you're having them done professionally I'd suggest telling them to copy the profile from the batter side which is approximately a 30 degree inside bevel and 1/8" outside round over. If you're doing them yourself I'd suggest first getting the reso side flat and then cutting a 1/8" round over on the outside on a router table. The re-rings aren't consistent enough to use a 30 degree bearing cutter on the inside so the inside bevel should be done by hand with a file and sandpaper. The inside bevel doesn't come right up to the apex of the round over. Instead the bevel is cut slightly inward leaving about 1/16" flat on top which is blended by hand with fine sandpaper into the round over and inside bevel. Hope that makes sense. I just finished up fixing a couple of 70's Ludwig toms that were also used as concert toms back in the day. Lots of dings, gouges, etc.. just like you describe.

Steve

1967 Slingerland 12,13,16,20 White Satin Flame
1968 Slingerland 12,14,16,20 Light Blue Pearl
Posted on 11 years ago
#2
Posts: 10 Threads: 2

Are they not 30 degrees, or not consistantley 30 degrees? I have cut many edges, but not by hand, on a vintage drum. I was going to use the Amana bit, and cut the re ring seam by hand. If there not 30 degrees, I won't bother.

Posted on 11 years ago
#3
Posts: 197 Threads: 27

I've done about 6 or 8 vintage edges now and for the most part they are 30 degrees inside bevel although I've seen it vary a bit. The re-ring is not a good surface to run a bearing against unless you're wanting to hog out some material and then go back by hand and finish it up. Not consistent in thickness or smooth enough, especially where the shell's plies overlap.

Steve

1967 Slingerland 12,13,16,20 White Satin Flame
1968 Slingerland 12,14,16,20 Light Blue Pearl
Posted on 11 years ago
#4
Posts: 10 Threads: 2

Thanks. I'll just sneak up as close as I can, then finish the remaining bit by hand.

Posted on 11 years ago
#5
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