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25" to 22" BD Hoop Cutdown!

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[Edit - Warning! Go to page 3 of this thread before attempting this job; it wasn't as easy as I thought!]

Hey all, I put this here instead of restoring because of the much heavier traffic and what I consider the importance of this.

I've had these 25" Leedy/Ludwig BD hoops for years - the drum got flooded and the calf heads rotted out at the bottom both sides. Well it's a 25" drum and so pretty useless minus the cash/work to have calf heads tucked, at which point I'd have all the issues with calf heads.

So I've been thinking about cutting them down to 22" for a long while now. Finally took the initiative two days ago, messed up the first try but was able to save the hoop with a section from a third, busted hoop. I'm not going to say how I messed up just yet - it's pretty embarrassing, so I'll let you guess for now...:) The extra section will be where the kick pedal mounts, well out of sight.

This thread is not about my workmanship, which is unremarkable due to lack of tools, shop, and patience. But this can be done!

What's absolutely key is having a form to put the hoop into. I didn't have a sheet of MDF or anything else to cut and didn't want to spend any money doing this. Finally it hit me - my hard cymbal case! It's sized to accomodate a 22" cymbal, with of course a little extra space all around. I took a steel MIJ hoop I have and dropped it in there and it was a perfect fit. Note - there was another such case in the basement, left over from when there was a jam space down there, and it was a tick too small. The case I used is a Sabian.

So, you cut the hoop straight across, insert into case, mark the overlap/material to be removed, plus where the lap joints will start/end, pull it back out, cut the lap joints, [I cut mine by hand with a jigsaw], smear the wood glue on both surfaces, re-insert the hoop into the case, and clamp it to the wall. The wall is plastic, so I used more sections from the 3rd busted hoop for added strength.

That's about it. I'll post more on the second hoop with pictures of the steps. Very excited about this as I wanted maple hoops for my maple finish Ludwig bass drum but didn't want to spend on them. A bonus for me is the natural relic look from 30s hoops that were painted black. Stripping is a drag so I took the paint off with a palm sander, leaving the divets with paint still in them. The hoops will get a hand-rubbing of linseed oil and then be put to work.

Mitch

Posted on 10 years ago
#1
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Yes! This is exactly what I am planning for a 17" BD that I don't have hoops for. I am planning on cutting down 18" hoops to the correct size. Could you show a close up picture of your lap joint if you woudn't mind? Thanks for posting this!

Posted on 10 years ago
#2
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Randy I was thinking of you while posting this and was going to put a link in your conversion thread.

Here are some pics of the joins, with a gentle reminder that this thread is not about my workmanship lol. The first two are the left side player POV and the last is the right side.

These joins were hand cut with a jigsaw and given no extra treatment before gluing. Technically the surfaces should be smoothed and matched for best bonding. For the second [reso] hoop, I will put a little more effort into it, but for this initial foray I was impatient to see if it would even work, as far as ending up in a nice round shape.

[edit] The Leedy hoops are 3-ply, the insert section is solid, 1-ply. If you are using 1-ply hoops, you could steam the wood before forming the tighter loop. With 3-ply I was given to understand that steaming would loosen the plies.

Mitch

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Posted on 10 years ago
#3
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Here's the second step [after cutting straight across, perpendicular to the hoop] for the reso hoop. I'd suggest cutting the hoop at it's most worn point, or where there are any cracks etc. While I'll be using this as my reso, it was the batter, so I cut it where the pedal attached.

Next step is marking material to be removed from each end, and start/finish of the lap joints.

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Posted on 10 years ago
#4
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Nice work on those Mitch. That is pretty nice work for only a jig saw and some glue!

Seeing these makes me more excited to get going on mine now.

Thank you, Randy

Posted on 10 years ago
#5
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...marked for straight cutting. Basically the marks for cutoff [removal of extra material] are the same as the lap start/finish marks...

There should probably be some consideration taken for the fact that one end is "inside" the target circle - it may affect the ultimate length of the lap join in some way I'm unable to articulate. I have elected to plow thoughtlessly forward...:)

Also, the reason for the saw-dusty cymbal case interior is that I cut the laps for the first hoop while it was in the case. This is not necessary or recommended.

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Posted on 10 years ago
#6
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Thanks Randy. I guess the challenge in your case with a target of 17" hoops is finding or making a form. You need some 17" hoops to use as a guide...I think.

Posted on 10 years ago
#7
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Very neat. I like how you came up with the process. The hoops look great and have a lot of vintage character. Good job!.

Posted on 10 years ago
#8
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That is one great example of Yankee know-how and creativity! It was a genius move to use the case as a template. I'm impressed.

John

Too many great drums to list here!

http://www.walbergandauge.com/VintageVenue.htm
Posted on 10 years ago
#9
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Lap joints cut and sanded. This hoop is a bit twisted, but I know from installing many MIJ hoops that the tension from the claws will take care of that to a certain extent...either way nothing I can do about it...

I have now learned that the result of one end being "inside" during the marking stage results in the lap being shorter than the target. So the lap marks should be a little outside the material cutoff marks, a little "longer". In retrospect this shouldn't have been too hard to predict.

[edit] Looking at the pics I think I need to do a little more sanding :)

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Posted on 10 years ago
#10
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