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12 Lug COB Slingerland 5x14 Snare Hoop Question Last viewed: 4 hours ago

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NICE snare! Thanks so much for the pics too! Your snare shell in much nicer condition than mine. Mine is flaking in some spots.

It looks like the 12 Lug 14x5 COB is very rare. If you look at the other catalog pages, 1979 is the only year that this snare was made. Which also places 455xxx serial numbers solidly in 1979.

VERY COOL! Walking

Posted on 15 years ago
#11
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very nice. the rare thing i had not expected. i guess i need to set some time aside & go thru all those catalog pages. i know that Slingerland made lots of 12-lug marching drums, but would be amazing if 1979 was the only year for 12-lug drumset snares. Mind Blowi

i'll keep y'all posted as i revamp this drum w/ new 2" rods / washers (stockers are rusty at some tops & threads), heads & snares. i talked to my drum guru at Fortune Drums & the bottom bearing edge (burrs) is common and maybe the cause of the broken head issue. will correct that if so.

my goal is to see how this snare meshes playing big band w/ this kit (keller "vintage" shells in african ribbon mahogany):

+ http://www.fortunedrums.com/PlayersEJ.htm#G

Geoff in Atlanta.

Posted on 15 years ago
#12
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I think Slingerland made 12-lug COB snares in later years but they were 14x5.5 not 14x5.

Posted on 15 years ago
#13
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From infamousflav

Thank you all so much for your responses. I'm currently working on finding all the right hardware. Got the top hoop, lugs, throw. Need a 12 lug COS (chrome over steel) snare side hoop and TDR butt.... Anyone?

TDR butts are on eBay frequently. Set up a saved search and have it email you when one is posted.

The snare side hoop shows up a lot less often. I think I've seen 1 in the last year. Saved search is your friend there too.

Posted on 15 years ago
#14
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FYI if anyone was looking for a 12-hole hoop source for these type of Slingerland drums, i just orderd mine from drummaker.com:

+ http://www.DrumMaker.com/look?231412

231412 - 2.3mm Chrome Hoop - 14 in -12 hl

231412s - 2.3mm Chrome SNARE Hoop - 14 in -12 hl

Posted on 15 years ago
#15
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From ggill1970

FYI if anyone was looking for a 12-hole hoop source for these type of Slingerland drums, i just orderd mine from drummaker.com:+ http://www.DrumMaker.com/look?231412231412 - 2.3mm Chrome Hoop - 14 in -12 hl231412s - 2.3mm Chrome SNARE Hoop - 14 in -12 hl

As.......long as you're OK with it not looking like a Slingerland Stick-Saver hoop. Yes, 12-hole 14-inch hoops are available as a standard stock item from finer purveyors.

Posted on 15 years ago
#16
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Right -- i am going to see how the after-markets feel / sound. I may go back to the Stick Savers after i polish them up. definitely will take a few shots of the drum in stock form before i go after-market. does anyone make NOS type Stick Savers in 12-hole ?

at this point, i'm not sure what was breaking the bottom head. I didn't find any burrs on the bearing edge & the edge looks even all around. The bottom hoop may be warped. i am hoping it is an old snare-side head & wrong tuning pattern.

Posted on 15 years ago
#17
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From ggill1970

...at this point, i'm not sure what was breaking the bottom head. I didn't find any burrs on the bearing edge & the edge looks even all around. The bottom hoop may be warped......

Here's is something you might want to check that might be the cause of your broken head problem:

COB snares get out of round very easily. If the snare is out of round so that the snare bed lies on the larger "out-of-round" diameter then this will create really high stress points on the head.

The way to check the "out of roundness" of the shell is to take a brand new head and fit it onto the drum (no hoop) then look at the gap between the shell and the metal part of the snare head. Check the gaps all the way around the shell. If you see gaps that vary, your shell is out of round.

Whil the head is on there, make sure it's snug against the bearing edge (still no hoop). There should be NO WRINKLES in the the head.

Next check the inside surface of the hoop for burrs. Then check roundness of the hoop by placing a new head inside the hoop and checking the gaps. Then check to see if the hoop is warped by laying on a glass table or granite countertop.

The LAST thing, if all else fails. When installing the head, use a DrumDial (don't spend $60 on one, put a 3/8 hole in a $2 hockey puck from a sporting goods store and buy a $14 dial indicator from Harbor Freight). If tighten all the tension rods evenly but get a drastically different reading at one of the tensions rods then you've found were you're problem is (even if you don't know what it is yet).

ANYWAY....I'm still looking for a Slingy 12-lug 14" bottom hoop.

ANYWAY....ANYWAY....Does anybody know how to get a hold of the webmaster. I've been trying to get a hold of him via emails and private messages to no avail...Any tips or tricks?

Posted on 15 years ago
#18
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AH, very good ideas...i will try all of that. i have also been wishing for one of those designer "light tables" with the glass to see if the hoops / bearing edges are flat. i don't have a drum dial, i will see if there is a harbor freight around me. i did some extreme cleaning over the weekend on the drum & cleaned out the threads big-time, so that should help w/ consistent tensioning. i also have new rods, washers (steel & ABS) to replace the factory ones. a bunch of the bottom ones were rusty; tops & threads (hmmm related to bottom head issues ?). i have everything but the aftermarket hoops, so look to clean up the Stick Saver hoops & test fit everything this week...looking for wrinkles, weirdness, etc.

my detailed cleaning this weekend per my drum maker buddy:

(1) did "3 in 1" oil w/ q-tips on all the threads. many were dirty as HELL & i was glad i cleaned them. really spent some time & did all 12 with "wet" q-tips & then went back & absorbed any left over oil w/ 1/2 damp q-tips. by the end, the q-tips were coming out relatively clean & the threads seems shiny, lubed & protected. will use this again when i prep the new rods. actually pretty impressed by this product & checked out its long history.

(2) did a quick clean w/ water, dish soap & a sponge...didn't want to get the drum too wet & just got rid of some of the old grime & then dried it off.

(3) used NON-abrasive Flintz metal polish on the chrome...could not find Guardsman despite the fact that Ace Hardware seemed to have everything good. a lot of work, but glad i did it.

(4) then hit the drum & bearing edges w/ Mothers (carnuba) car wax...the old-school kind in a paste tin. by the time, i was done, the drum was *blinding* like a mirror ! slick & smelled like a Hawaiian vacation.

overall the drum looks very good...has a lot of character & i will get some new pictures up. lots of interesting scratches, small dents & a little bit of chrome pitting (very mild in a few spots, but not deep enough to see any brass).

Posted on 15 years ago
#19
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3-in-1 w/Q-tips. That sounds like a great idea!

From a metallurgy point of view, the different metals between the tension rods and the lug inserts causes corrosion by just being different metals. It's like spark plugs in aluminum heads, if you leave them in there too long, they are a *PAIN* to get out beause of the corrosion that has formed at the threads. That's why I put some permatex anti-seize on my spark plug threads and my drum lugs (as messy as it sounds, it works great for workhorse drums).

My shell has many flaws the worst being out of round in a asymetrical fashion. Some parts over 14" some under but NOT at 45-degree, They more like flat spots and asymetrical dents. I will have to start researching who or how to fix it. Please post and let me know if you have and out-of-round issue too.

Would love to see some pics of your cleaned up 12-lug COB!

Posted on 15 years ago
#20
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