[FONT="Trebuchet MS"][COLOR="Blue"]I had it at 125... too pricey??
Anyway -- Now 100 bucks plus six (half of the ship costs). Pics after looooong description!
Cash, check, m.o. preferred. [/COLOR][/FONT]
A while back the Porsche company had a print ad. It showed the front third or so of 2 cars, nose-to-nose. One was a 1955 Speedster - the other the current edition of the 911. The caption read "Everything We've Learned So Far."
So, here's the Speed King that I waited to build for myself. The restoration stuff I always do -- clean the inside of the towers til they're spotless (seriously). The bearings were cleaned and soaked in brake fluid for a couple of weeks; it's a trick I learned from a Ferrari mechanic. Drinking buddy back then, didn't work on my car!
The springs and the pistons the same, cleaned and lubed with a hi-tech grease. The shiny parts were polished and buffed. The threads in the towers and the adjustment screws were chased with tap and die.
Then there's some new stuff. The paint is still the hammered finish paint, but it isn't the spray everyone uses. It's a brush on -- it's taken a bit of practice! But it looks much better, and is likely more durable than the original. Two coats, wait a week in between for it to fully dry.
The wing bolt for the hoop clamp was fabricated and the clamp threads were chased.
Here's the thing: the chrome rocker (between the towers, that holds the beater) is new. It's a pricey part, but the chrome is perfect...as good as it gets these days! The beater is obviously new. Nice and clean, but it says "Ludwig Drum Co. Monroe NC." Unfortunately it doesn't say "Chicago," but what can you do?
And -- this has bugged me for months! - this is one of those Speed Kings where you run out of threads before the clamp snugs onto the hoop. I finally realized that the casting is imperfect. To solve the problem, a chrome acorn nut was filed flat, then attached with Gorilla Glue. That stuff STICKS.
Oh! The frame is from a later model Speed King. Those vertical tabs that the 'feet' that fit under the hoop are shorter than the older pedals. The longer ones drove me nuts on a 1967 Ludwig hoop. This solves the problem.
There. I'm done yakking! Plays very smoothly. I did NOT drill out the pedal and put nulon bushings in it...because it is still nice and tight! THAT's why I like the WFL pedals. The metal is way superior to later models...they always get loose and sloppy. Steel made it Pittsburg back in the day??
$125. Honestly, that's a heckuva deal; I know it sounds like bragging, but this was a lot of....work/fun/obsessiveness. There are some pits in the surface of the pedal, obviously, but... unless you're putting it in a glass case...! Your half of the shipping would be six bucks. Money order, check, cash preferred.
Okay-- click on these and see all 11 pics!!!
THIS ONE SHOWS ANOTHER UPGRADE. I REPLACED THE STEEL ROLL PINS WITH STAINLESS STEEL SEMI-TUBULAR RIVETS. Nice and snug, and if you ever want to take it apart, you'll love them. And they look neater, more finished.
Thanks for letting me yak. It's a steal... it really is...