I`m thinking it`s an older version of what they are calling the Mainstage series by the lug type. It`ll be Birch but still an entry level kit.

If you`re a pro drummer you`ll be taking a hit because it wont behave.

Price is fair.

So what is the different actually between entry level and pro kit? I have tired many kits but it is so difficult to give an label prof drums. wood, edges what else??? Some snares are not sensitive it is true, but moos case is drum head.

There are a lot of things in play between the types. The quality of the build is huge. Things like thread count on the rods, white or soft steel and the gauge of the trim, even the plate process dictates how a rim shot will sound. The type of wood is considerable depending. The type of wrap and finish on the inside like plywood cross grain or vertical, and even veneers matters on overtones. When it comes to heads, if they don`t float on the drum, even the best will not perform like they should. A headring contacting the shell kills the heads performance and ability to fine tune it. Do the FT legs wobble ? Do the toms stay put ? Does the rack shake when playing ? Will the BD walk ? Can it be adjusted to your size comfortably ? You can go on and on with the differences.

The time and engineering on a entry and top of the line series is night and day.

Here`s a for instance,

I just sold my sisters Yamaha Gigmaker, Entry level kit, but when I went to put the front BD head back on, I noticed that the claws were just basic bends and the gauge was very thin. I could bend them open and closed with just my fingers, or they will open if tightened too deep.

I can`t open and close the claws with my Phonics. Not even with tools.

Yes man you know a lot bravo!! My first drums were Tacton East Germany, but the snare was a killer sound and sensitive steel 14-6,5 inch and the toms not bad at all, even they were **** material. I could buy YAMAHA POWER V ENGLAND-not special, is it better than this PDP? I prefer metal snares because is more sensitive and more range tones I thing, but cymbals were 16- 16 so must buy a ride which is extra money and I stop this pdp. Thanks my friend. OO now I play YAMAHA GIGMASTER the snare is dead not sensitive.

More opinions please tomorrow it is my day of buying. is it a good drum or not??

If you go in person to look at them, I`d sit down and play them...If you like the sound, buy them...If you don`t, walk away...

Cheers

Well to state the obvious, this is a vintage drum site. You'll be better off going to the Mike Dolbear or Drumsmith sites for info on new starter kits. However looking at the pics, if your happy that it stands up when you set it up, it looks right and sounds cool then go for it. The Sabians look like they're priced about right for B20 bronze cymbals.

thank you guys!!! and that's model year 2000 so it is not relic but not new as well.

Hi guys for those who are interested from my Pacific it is a north American maple, just got personal E-mail mr. Ryan DW fabric .HE SAYS :GREAT DRUMS but made for short time in Taiwan. It is great sounding massive kit, limited edition. The cymbals are SABIAN pro Sonix far better then entry level B8, semiprofessional, but what I need a big bell ride and high but warm crash and super sensitive nice hi -hat and lovely crash. The owner did photos bottom hat because it is brighter ha-ha what a idea. Actually for 300 euro I bought a 2300 euro kit, that is for sure. Thank you for your help, I could buy a Yamaha POWER V England, o Mapex, but thanks to your help I got a GREAT MAPLE KIT similar DW year 2000. THANKS!!!!