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Opinions needed on changing a vintage snare throw-off Last viewed: 13 hours ago

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I'm considering buying an old Slingy snare with the clamshell throw-off. It's in great shape but I've read where the throw handle breaks off quite often and as most things go, in the most inappropriate of times.

I was thinking that if I decided to buy this snare, that I would put a modern throw on it so that it would be more useable in everyday situations. I'd keep the old throw if I ever decided to sell it to keep it's originality. I'd probably just put on Slingerlands next best throw to keep the mechanics in the family.

2 questions:

1) do you think that this is a good idea or should I just leave the clamshell throw and hope it doesn't break?

2) if I do decide to change the throw, which should I get? A Slingerland model or an aftermarket like Gibraltar or Trick?

Opinions???

Posted on 10 years ago
#1
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No need to change the strainer...just get her tuned up right and she'll be fine. If you are concerned about the handle...you can buy a new one (link below). I bought one about a year and 1/2 ago for my '57 Super Gene Krupa...works like a charm!

Aaron

http://www.drumatix.com/lf-hw-10.html

- EMD
Posted on 10 years ago
#2
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What ever you do, don't drill any extra holes.

Posted on 10 years ago
#3
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From ElMoonlightDrummer

No need to change the strainer...just get her tuned up right and she'll be fine. If you are concerned about the handle...you can buy a new one (link below). I bought one about a year and 1/2 ago for my '57 Super Gene Krupa...works like a charm!Aaronhttp://www.drumatix.com/lf-hw-10.html

Thats a good idea to buy a new handle. I bet the new ones are stronger than the originals.

When the the snare is engaged, is the handle above the rim?

Posted on 10 years ago
#4
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From Gerald Sterken

What ever you do, don't drill any extra holes.

No NEVER!!

Posted on 10 years ago
#5
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From Norcoastal

Thats a good idea to buy a new handle. I bet the new ones are stronger than the originals.When the the snare is engaged, is the handle above the rim?

They say the replacements are guaranteed not to break on the website. When engaged, it will sit pointed to the front or the back (parallel to ground) and will only stand straight up above the rim when disengaged.

Like I said...once you fine tune it, it should work just fine.

- EMD
Posted on 10 years ago
#6
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From ElMoonlightDrummer

They say the replacements are guaranteed not to break on the website. When engaged, it will sit pointed to the front or the back (parallel to ground) and will only stand straight up above the rim when disengaged.Like I said...once you fine tune it, it should work just fine.

Great info, thanks!

Posted on 10 years ago
#7
Posts: 5356 Threads: 87
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From Norcoastal

Thats a good idea to buy a new handle. I bet the new ones are stronger than the originals.When the the snare is engaged, is the handle above the rim?

I have one of Emory's new handles too and they are great. No the handle should be facing down when the snares are engaged. Some think this isn't correct but the Slingerland section here has a tutorial on the Clamshell (and other SL strainers) and the last pic shows it on this way.

When I bought my 58 RK snare it had a Pearl strainer on it. No new holes thankfully. They used 2 metal bars with holes in it and mounted the Pearl strainer to the bars. Then the whole thing to the shell. So there's always that option. But to me the Clamshell works very well once setup correctly. There's tons of adjustments in the whole assy's.

Here's the old Pearl strainer on mine. It's has been replaced with the correct Clamshell parts. The "L" shaped bar was a temp thing so I could try the new extended Puresound snare wires. The snare came with regular snares with plastic strips, the normal setup most use.

Glenn.

Not a guru just havin fun with some old dusty drums.
Posted on 10 years ago
#8
Glenn.

Not a guru just havin fun with some old dusty drums.
Posted on 10 years ago
#9
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From FFR428

I have one of Emory's new handles too and they are great. No the handle should be facing down when the snares are engaged. Some think this isn't correct but the Slingerland section here has a tutorial on the Clamshell (and other SL strainers) and the last pic shows it on this way. When I bought my 58 RK snare it had a Pearl strainer on it. No new holes thankfully. They used 2 metal bars with holes in it and mounted the Pearl strainer to the bars. Then the whole thing to the shell. So there's always that option. But to me the Clamshell works very well once setup correctly. There's tons of adjustments in the whole assy's. Here's the old Pearl strainer on mine. It's has been replaced with the correct Clamshell parts. The "L" shaped bar was a temp thing so I could try the new extended Puresound snare wires. The snare came with regular snares with plastic strips, the normal setup most use.

Down actually makes more sense...

Posted on 10 years ago
#10
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