Thanks for the input guys. The reason I ask is because I have 2 different drums with nickel hardware and no date stamp,one a WFL ludwig marching snare and the other a super classic tom. I'm trying to figure out if there is anyway to date them.
Nickel Hardware Last viewed: 2 days ago
I know, I do think there wouldn't be much in it.:). Yes I love the look of nickel which also under certain lighting takes on a mellow silvery look.
Sure thing! Funny how chrome is more $$ because it's an extra step - so does that mean, if they sprayed the hardware with, say, flat yellow spray paint on top of the chrome, would that be even more $$?
Special Order! :)
Mitch
I think the nickel is a little more classy. But I need to find isolation mounts and it's really hard to find anything that will match.
Thanks for the input guys. The reason I ask is because I have 2 different drums with nickel hardware and no date stamp,one a WFL ludwig marching snare and the other a super classic tom. I'm trying to figure out if there is anyway to date them.
What, you mean the actual topic of the thread? How dare you...and sorry I can't help. :)
I think the nickel is a little more classy. But I need to find isolation mounts and it's really hard to find anything that will match.
I read online about removing chrome [and leaving behind the nickel] from metal using muriatic acid....I *think* it was muriatic. Anyway, you can do it, but the article specified it will never have the vintage nickel appearance...so I guess why bother. Might be worth a test run just to see...
Mitch
As I understand the process, the chrome layer is clear with a bluish cast to it. The shiny reflective surface you see on chromed parts is actually still a polished nickel layer underneath but the chrome layer prevents the nickel from tarnishing and changes the hue from the goldish tone of nickel to the bluish cast of chrome.
Chrome was a couple bucks more than nickel as an option. Today it seems a no brainer to spend two or three dollars more per drum or maybe 10 or 15 more for a set with chrome hardware, but back in the day a dollar was actually worth something so those seemingly small amounts were more significant. Also I suppose when seen on brand new drums the difference was probably a lot more subtle between the two, whereas 40-50-60s year later the chrome is usually still pretty shiny while the nickel has likely tarnished.
I, too, prefer the rich glow of nickel hardware. But, the upkeep required to maintain that shimmer is much more than with (well applied) chrome .
MarkE
I, too, prefer the rich glow of nickel hardware. But, the upkeep required to maintain that shimmer is much more than with (well applied) chrome .MarkE
Another fine distinction emerges - I like it both kempt and unkempt. :) I suppose, as long as it matches the condition of the shells...
My 30's Ludwig snare and Slingerland SF hoops both keep a good amount of luster with admittedly no maintenance really, whereas the casings on my 60s Pioneer are pretty grey, with the Pioneer rims falling somewhere in between...what you might call a variance with a non-obvious explanation. :)
Mitch
My 30's Ludwig snare and Slingerland SF hoops both keep a good amount of luster with admittedly no maintenance really, whereas the casings on my 60s Pioneer are pretty grey, with the Pioneer rims falling somewhere in between...what you might call a variance with a non-obvious explanation. :)
Sorry to talk to myself here, but I may have come up with an explanation which is more obvious than I thought - all the nickel hardware I have which is lustrous and shiny without maintenance is nickel over brass; snare shell, tom rims. The stuff I have that is grey and relatively dull is nickel over steel; tension casings, Slingerland and Club Date.
So maybe there's something about nickel over brass that keeps the nickel lustrous...
Mitch
Sorry to talk to myself here, but I may have come up with an explanation which is more obvious than I thought - all the nickel hardware I have which is lustrous and shiny without maintenance is nickel over brass; snare shell, tom rims. The stuff I have that is grey and relatively dull is nickel over steel; tension casings, Slingerland and Club Date.So maybe there's something about nickel over brass that keeps the nickel lustrous...Mitch
Not sure about that theory. I have encountered nickel over brass hoops that were extremely cloudy and dull. Hard to polish at times.
Not sure about that theory. I have encountered nickel over brass hoops that were extremely cloudy and dull. Hard to polish at times.
...I guess we're back to a non-obvious explanation then...:)
Mitch
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