A screw broke off in my slingerland mount. Anyway to get it out?
How can I get this out? Last viewed: 3 days ago
Maybe something like this?:
http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?p=32272&cat=3,41306,41329
Soak parts before removal with WD 40 and/or Break Free
Overnight
Get an Easy out bit/bits, drill hole in center of broken bolt(thats the hardest part)
use easy out reverse bit to remove bolt
When/If that doesn't work.
Drill out boss/bolt and re-tap.
good luck
Thanks to Mr. Jerry Jenkins
Ugh. As mentioned, "easy out". Drill the center of the screw, starting with a very small bit. Use a drill press, if possible. Be gentle. Liquid Wrench is an awesome penetrator.
Good luck.
B
Ugh. As mentioned, "easy out". Drill the center of the screw, starting with a very small bit. Use a drill press, if possible. Be gentle. Liquid Wrench is an awesome penetrator.Good luck.B
This is the right fix as AZbill recomends
1979 12 pc ludwig power factory
Man, I wanna try to fix that... but I hope I never have to.
Good luck on this one EC.
(very short drum solo)
EZ out is the way, but you can make life easier on yourself if you start the process with a left handed drill bit. Often the heat and friction of drilling with the drill will remove the screw and you won't have to go to the EZ out. Absolutely soak it with penetrating oil overnight. PB Blaster and Kroil are good ones. WD-40 is pretty useless, and I don't even think I own any these days.
Small EZ outs like to break. I have broken dozens of them. Once that is stuck in the middle of the bolt, you are in deep do-do with a flimsy casting like this. In a cast iron engine block or flywheel, its another story...
I think even Harbor Freight has left hand drill bit sets now-a-days.
Good luck!
Red Ripple '70's Yamaha D-20 20b-12-14f
Piano Black Yamaha Recording Custom Be-Bop kit 18b-10-14f
Snares:
Yamaha COS SDM5; Yamaha Cobalt Blue RC 5-1/2x14; Gretsch round badge WMP; 1972 Ludwig Acrolite; 1978 Ludwig Super Sensitive; Cobalt Blue one-off Montineri; Yamaha Musashi 6.5X13 Oak; cheap 3.5X13 brass piccolo
EZ out is the way, but you can make life easier on yourself if you start the process with a left handed drill bit. Often the heat and friction of drilling with the drill will remove the screw and you won't have to go to the EZ out. Absolutely soak it with penetrating oil overnight. PB Blaster and Kroil are good ones. WD-40 is pretty useless, and I don't even think I own any these days.Small EZ outs like to break. I have broken dozens of them. Once that is stuck in the middle of the bolt, you are in deep do-do with a flimsy casting like this. In a cast iron engine block or flywheel, its another story...I think even Harbor Freight has left hand drill bit sets now-a-days.Good luck!
Not true! WD-40 is good for removing ink, pencil and 2-sided tape and adhesives from hard, non-porous surfaces, without harming the finish. Yeah, I'm talking to you, "Goof Off".
I like the anti-clockwise friction idea, with the drill.
B
Yes, you are absolutely right!
We used WD-40 to remove the grease marks from the fenders of cars after working on them. It is great for that!
Red Ripple '70's Yamaha D-20 20b-12-14f
Piano Black Yamaha Recording Custom Be-Bop kit 18b-10-14f
Snares:
Yamaha COS SDM5; Yamaha Cobalt Blue RC 5-1/2x14; Gretsch round badge WMP; 1972 Ludwig Acrolite; 1978 Ludwig Super Sensitive; Cobalt Blue one-off Montineri; Yamaha Musashi 6.5X13 Oak; cheap 3.5X13 brass piccolo
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