seems like it would be easier just to switch hoops. drummaker.com can order some 10-ply hoops for you (which will be the correct thickness for vintage drums) and can cut them to any width you need. it may cost a few bucks, but at least you won't have to modify anything.

moonweasel, I have a short base pedal and a wide one. The one with the shorter base fits my 69 ludwigs best. PM me and maybe we can find a solution in trading the bases. Squeaks almost always come from the foot plate hinge and you could keep your foot plate. I have just rehabbed the base: remove springs, pins, bearings, and cleaned and re-lubed/re-packed all. This one has puller port in the end caps for easy re-lube access. Original caps though.

Willing to try to figure a way to help you although I have never done a trade on VDF and I am not sure of the "trust" process. I have references on deals on the VDF. Again PM with interest.

Holy cow.

Another difference in the WFL is that the vertical piece, extending from the post toward the front, is longer on the WFL. Which means that, depending on the width of the hoop, the WFL would be too far from the head... which means the beater would hit at a an angle, and the pedal may bottom out on the hoop.

Rats!!!

That's an awful lot of time with a hacksaw and a file.

Well, whenever I sell a pedal, that's a discussion we'll have before the deal is done.

Okay...here's a solution to one problem...which is the one with the vertical tabs keeping the pedal too far from the head:

Replace the connecting link/strp with one of the new ones made by Ludwig. It is shorter.

Drumsonsale.com has them. Part P1210A selling at 7.05 (plus shipping).

The one I just rebuilt and have listed for sale has that new link, and it works fine. Another frame that has the older link 'bottomed out' with the pedal hitting the wing bolt on the clamp. Quite a difference.

Just tried another one...and it works. So.

Memo to self: on future rebuilds, use the new strap!

I'm sitting wondering how any drummer could still actually play one of those things. I have lots of vintage pedals - love looking at them - but gigging with them? Drums haven't really changed much. But hardware certainly has. I'd buy a 68' Mustang and drive it. Sure wouldn't put 50 year old tires on it though. Car Driving2

I appreciate what your saying about cars, but I have to say my 60s Speed King performs as well as my 80s DW and has not let me down on a gig. Easy to fold up and carry, outlasted much newer Sonor and Pearl pedals (broken springs, worn out linkages), The SK is easily maintainable, and parts still reasonable if you need em. I feel very comfortable with it and vintage is fun.

Now I sound like an old fuddy duddy, but I think its all about confidence and comfort when it comes to BD pedals.:2Cents:

I am a guitarist, so I don't count. :) I liked the modern Pearl that came with my kit just fine. I like the SpeedKing maybe 20% better. I need to get the proper spacing though, thinking about which path to take now.

Oh, I own a '65 Mustang with a four speed, and it has brand new tires on it. (and modern disc brakes thank god. :) )

Well, my gigging days are over....so I get to enjoy the sound, feel, and aesthetics of vintage gear!

But I've also found ways to make things stronger. On Gretsch Floating Action pedals I've restored, I found a very nice synthetic leather that is some kind of plastic/nylon/poly thing...I don't know exactly what, but it isn't going to stretch, and it isn't going to break.

So that's what I use on Swivomatics, and one of my all time favorites, the Slingerland Tempo King.

Yes, I have a Yamaha Flying Dragon Direct Drive that is superb...but these days I can lay back and play for fun.

The solution to the WFL problem is definitely a shorter connecting link. I used the new one on two, and re-formed an original on another, and all 3 WFLs play just fine on the Ludwig Downbeat (which has wider hoops than the 69 Slingerland).

Bill,

I will have to study my situation more carefully when I get a chance tonight, but, although I have thought it a lot, I can't see how a shorter link would help me. I probably am totally wrong, but I think the overall geometry needs to be changed for my beater to hit properly.

Here is an image I made for a different thread (ignore some of the text...)...

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v66/mweasel/ludwig/beaterangle_zpsb2063978.jpg[/IMG]

What I have decided to do is just buy a Speed-King with the other tab style BEFORE I sell mine. Compare the two, and sell the weakest link. :)

Thank you though for your help. I do appreciate it.