It fits the topic, I had a drum that would tip when you put the rack tom on the rail

Here are a few pics the first is my Ludwig kit that is my 24" medium Paiste 2002, the 2nd is a Slingerland Gene krupa kit that is a 20" bass drum it is sitting on top of. the 24" ride is mounted on both kits.

Awesome looking kits you have there Mark. Tommy

Probably not the WAY you were thinking! I can tilt mine outwards but the George Way/ Camco design has a square bracket and post so it can't slip!

[IMG]http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x246/dolfan54/Camco%20Oaklawn/IMG_0584.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x246/dolfan54/George%20Way/Untitled15.jpg[/IMG]

That`s a really nice kit Dolfan !i

Was there something wrong with the splay of the spurs, or did it tip length ways ? Alot of older BD drums I`ve seen had four spurs, maybe that`s why !i

Keith,

I would say the 'L' arm that is designed to be used with a knobby mount on the bass drum was intended for use in the straight-up position. Any attempt to tilt it outward is probably risky. You also have to have the correct cap on the knobby. The cap for the floor tom leg is different than the cap for the knobby that goes on the bass and sometimes these get exchanged and folks don't know they are making a mistake doing that. In fact, the whole unit that goes on the bass is different than the one for the legs, which are raised to clear the floor tom hoop and drilled to a differing inside diameter for the hex legs. The correct diameter for the 'L' rod knobby is 3/8".

Rogers designed the swivomatic mount with the hex rods when you want the cymbal out further but still attached to the bass drum and not a stand. There is essentially no risk in using that arrangement. That appears on Swingtime and Constellation layouts. The Headliner, Twin Bass and Starflighter outfits all had the knobby arrangement.

I would note that the cast knobby mounts used in the 9/72 era and beyond might improve your ability to use the 'L' arm at a slight angle. Those units are not round inside - they are cut at angles to crab the floor tom legs more securely. You may have noticed that it is a bit more difficult to pack a floor tom with that mount. You have to open the knobby a lot more in order to be able to spin the leg around against the drum. So if you were to put one of those on the bass, it might grip a bit better, but you will still be using it in a manner for which it was not specifically designed.

The other word of caution is; try to make sure you are applying tension to the cap screws such that they are tightened evenly across the cap rather than allowing one side to be nearly closed and the other side more open.

Finally, I believe the Rogers shells are plenty strong enough to support any reasonable size cymbal. You should have the two large washers in the top an bottom positions inside the drum - orientated to the circumferential centerline of the drum, with the smaller washers in the side position - oriented front to back of the drum, so as to distribute the load properly on the shell.

Dan

Keith,

Here's the kit for you. Has a Gibraltar mount on the bass. I'll bet that one will allow the 'L' arm to be way out there.

I once mounted an 18" JBL subwoofer on my cymbal L arm.

Ok just kidding. I have the original arm and holder on my 1969 Ludwig Standard and I have had the issue of my cymbal arm slipping when I put anything bigger than a 20". I keep my ride very low and a larger cymbal will hit the tom unless I tilt the cym. arm out slightly, and as a result the arm tends to slip.

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