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60's Ludwig marching snare conversion, before & after... Last viewed: 5 hours ago

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I've always wanted a deep, wood-hoop snare for my collection. After finding a rather beat up mid-60's Ludwig 10x14 marching snare on eBay for next to nothing, I decided to try my hand at a conversion project. I've never really done any drum building or serious restoration before.

1) I used a heat gun to carefully remove the old duco-sparkle wrap. Not too bad once I got the hang of it.

2) From the bottom edge, I cut the shell down to 7-1/4" using a table saw.

3) I used a warm water soak to remove the original maple reinforcing ring from the waste bottom piece. I then re-glued and re-installed the ring flush to the "new" bottom edge.

4) Using a homemade jig, I drilled 16 new holes for the bottom lug casings.

5) I drilled new holes for the snare strainer & butt plate, 90° from where they were originally located.

6) I filled all unused holes (the 8 remaining original holes for the bottom lug casings, the original holes for the strainer & butt, plus a couple other extra holes that someone had drilled at some point) using Minwax High Performance 2-part wood filler.

7) The original white Reso-Kote finish on the shell interior was in pretty bad shape, so I gave it a light sanding and re-finished it with Zinzer white shellac.

8) I brought the shell to Precision Drum Company and had them expertly re-wrap it in Black Diamond Pearl (to match my '66 BDP Ludwig kit), and re-install the badge with a new brass grommet. I also had them re-cut both bearing edges and the snare beds. They do great work!

9) I also bought a set of 1" unfinished maple hoops with 1/2" inlay cuts from Precision Drum, and a set of BDP inlays.

10) I finished the maple hoops with black enamel, followed by 4 coats of Zar clear gloss polyurethane (rub down lightly with #0000 steel wool and a tack cloth in between each coat), and installed the pearl inlays.

11) Finally, I scored a nice set of 60's Ludwig claws/tension rods/washers. To make the tension rods work for this drum, I brought them to my buddy's machine shop and had him cut off about 3/4" from the total length, and then cut about 3/8" of additional threads on each.

It took me about 2 months and a lot of effort, but I think the drum looks pretty good. Most importantly, it sounds amazing!

Any comments are welcome.

JohnB

Posted on 12 years ago
#1
Posts: 6170 Threads: 255
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great idea,great work and it looks amazing. thats really nice to see something like that transformed into something you can use with your kit. stunning!

mike

Posted on 12 years ago
#2
Posts: 5356 Threads: 87
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John great job saving this drum~! Man your hard work paid off it looks stunning. Excellent job.

Glenn.

Not a guru just havin fun with some old dusty drums.
Posted on 12 years ago
#3
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Really nice work...a great looking snare!

Posted on 12 years ago
#4
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Great job! What a nice looking snare, I bet it sounds killer

Posted on 12 years ago
#5
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Thanks for all the kind words. It does sound killer. I set it up with a Remo FiberSkyn Ambassador batter and a set of Fat Cat dual-adjustable 24-strand snares. I tuned it on the low side, and it sounds amazingly woody, deep & resonant. Just what I was looking for. Worth the effort! :)

Posted on 12 years ago
#6
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Looks great.

Posted on 12 years ago
#7
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From johnnyzero

10) I finished the maple hoops with black enamel, followed by 4 coats of Zar clear gloss polyurethane (rub down lightly with #0000 steel wool and a tack cloth in between each coat), and installed the pearl inlays.

Interesting - I'm finishing off my wood hoops later this year, and I've been wondering the best way to go about this!

Looks great - really good job!

Posted on 12 years ago
#8
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From zacxzac

Interesting - I'm finishing off my wood hoops later this year, and I've been wondering the best way to go about this!

I wanted glossy black hoops, and I wanted them to be as resistant as possible to chipping/denting from rim shots and stray hits.

I don't know much about wood finishes, so I'm not even sure if technically you're supposed to use polyurethane over spray enamel - but that's what I did. Supposedly, polyurethane over lacquer is a no-no, but I couldn't get a straight answer about enamel.

Anyway, I waited 3 days for the enamel to cure and to allow any solvents or other volatile compounds to evaporate/outgas before applying the polyurethane coats. The finish came out looking great, and so far it's held up very well to rim shots. No chips, dents, or scratches.

JohnB

Posted on 12 years ago
#9
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You are pretty crafty, I must say! I wouldnt even know where to start! Looks great

-Justin

"People might look at you a bit funny, but it's okay. Artists are allowed to be a bit different."- Bob Ross

"After silence, that which comes closest to expressing the inexpressible is music..." - Aldous Huxley
Posted on 12 years ago
#10
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