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What should I build?

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From Purdie Shuffle

Bunny - Here's one for you buddy! Not a deep-dish, but it will make for a serious snare drum nonetheless. Check it out:http://www.ebay.com/itm/5x14-Triple-Groove-Slingerland-Snare-Drum-Shell-Brass-/270781941458?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f0bdc86d2#ht_1400wt_1165Don't let the ad fool you, that's a copper shell! I know drummers that swear by their copper shell snares.John

Yeah- that's the one I thought of. Yeah- I gotta figure out exactly what I'm going to do here. I do want a metal drum in my arsenal. I don't know if I'm going to really have the time to build. Decisions, decisions...

Yeah- I'm THAT guy!!!

Dead dogs like rusty fire hydrants!!!
Posted on 13 years ago
#21
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From kevins

Where did you find tube lugs to fit, or did you have to elongate the holes a bit?ThanksKev

Kev,

I remember you mentioning this on DFO if I am not much mistaken.... I ordered 2 3/16" tubes from drumfactorydirect and they fit fine. I did have to press gently on a couple and they simply "clicked" into the holes. There is a bit of inconsistency in either the lugs or the shell. I don't know which as I didn't measure either beyond making sure I was getting the closest lug for the spacing pre drilled in the shell. Once the throw and butt were drilled I just assembled it and let it go at that.

JIM

Posted on 13 years ago
#22
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From kevins

Here's my Slingerland snare project and what I have in her.1. Shell $1232. Rods $163. Lugs $324. Back Plates @ Screws $325. Rapid Strainer and Butt $456. COB Single-Flange Hoops $507. Heads $288. Puresound Wires $289. Clips $40Total $394

Kev,

Were the hoops you used new or a vintage set reassigned to the new build?

JIM

Posted on 13 years ago
#23
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From bunnyman

No- you're right. When it comes right down to it, it's screwing in parts.The only pre-drilled that cat has now are brass Gretsch. It's not that I am incapable of building it by drilling the shell; after all- I built bicycle frames. Of course I built three before I had one that was actually rideable. I am of course speaking not of one that fell apart with the first pedal stroke, but one that actually had the right balance of flex in the right places and stiffness where needed. What this long-winded explanation means is that I am capable of the mechanical aspects.With this new band project, I am probably kidding myself about having the time to do this, and I need an arsenal of snares that are ready to play.And no- you didn't p*ss me off at all.

If you're looking for a nice brass shell, there are a lot of parts houses that sell amazing looking hammered shells. They have sort of an antique look to the brass and dress up really nice! The only drawback is that by the time you get finished dressing her out, it'll cost around $300, but that's not bad for a drum the big-boys would sell for $500-$600!...but the best part is that you get to choose what she looks like in the end. I just bought a huge parts lot on peeBay, might be able to pass along some new tubes & etc. for a "brother-in-law" price...I've just got to see what all I've really bought.

The problem I have with the NOS Slingy shells is the same problem Slingy had with them, they are poorly designed & have a tendency bend easily, they sound great, but try finding an old Sound King that's really straight.

Here a few sites where you can can check out the shells at:

http://www.bestdrumdeals.com

http://www.drumfactorydirect.com

http://www.drummaker.com

"Play the drum...don't let it play you" - Max Roach

1968, 1974 & 1984 Rogers Dyna•Sonic COB
1971, 1976 Slingerland GK Sound King
1973 Slingerland Festival
1920's-40's Slingerland (US Military) Field Snares (6)
19?- Ludwig Field Snare (US Marines)
1960's Premier Gold Glitter Student Snare kit
1960's-? MIJ Snares (way-way too many)
Posted on 13 years ago
#24
Posts: 6288 Threads: 375
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From vwfreak

Kev,Were the hoops you used new or a vintage set reassigned to the new build?JIM

Hi Jim

They are vintage 60s Slingerland.

Kevin
Posted on 13 years ago
#25
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> The problem I have with the NOS Slingy shells is the same problem Slingy had with them, they are poorly designed & have a tendency bend easily, they sound great, but try finding an old Sound King that's really straight.

Fortunately, for all of us who purchased them, the NOS shells in this batch were all good. The first thing I checked when I took it out of the box was to see if the shell sat flush on a flat surface.

And I just want to add in response to Fungus's comment... (but I will say that buying a pre-drilled NOS shell off of sleezeBay & screwing hardware on it is not building a drum...it is assembling a drum...)

Even though some of the shells had pre-drilled lug holes, everybody needed to carefully measure and place the holes for the strainer and butt plate assembly, vent the shell, carefully drill and file-dress the holes and then assemble the drum into something playable.

That's a 'build' not an 'assembly.'

John

Too many great drums to list here!

http://www.walbergandauge.com/VintageVenue.htm
Posted on 13 years ago
#26
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From Purdie Shuffle

> The problem I have with the NOS Slingy shells is the same problem Slingy had with them, they are poorly designed & have a tendency bend easily, they sound great, but try finding an old Sound King that's really straight.Fortunately, for all of us who purchased them, the NOS shells in this batch were all good. The first thing I checked when I took it out of the box was to see if the shell sat flush on a flat surface.And I just want to add in response to Fungus's comment... (but I will say that buying a pre-drilled NOS shell off of sleezeBay & screwing hardware on it is not building a drum...it is assembling a drum...) Even though some of the shells had pre-drilled lug holes, everybody needed to carefully measure and place the holes for the strainer and butt plate assembly, vent the shell, carefully drill and file-dress the holes and then assemble the drum into something playable.That's a 'build' not an 'assembly.' John

Then I also agree that it IS a build, especially if you ended up lining up, drilling, and setting up the strainer mechanisms. Also, if you had to alter the holes, it's a build!!!

Not trying to play both sides, but I agree on both points!!!

I am still on the fence at this point...

Now- let's all do this:Group Hug

Yeah- I'm THAT guy!!!

Dead dogs like rusty fire hydrants!!!
Posted on 13 years ago
#27
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From kevins

Hi JimThey are vintage 60s Slingerland.

Wondered if they were vintage..... I'm about to try a vintage set of Gretsch COB's on mine. Soon as my clips get here....!

Bunnyman, I am thinking of snapping up one of those 5" shells too. I like the 6.5 so much it might be a nice match. I'd build 'em both the same way.... Nice to A/B them that way...!

Posted on 13 years ago
#28
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From vwfreak

Wondered if they were vintage..... I'm about to try a vintage set of Gretsch COB's on mine. Soon as my clips get here....!Bunnyman, I am thinking of snapping up one of those 5" shells too. I like the 6.5 so much it might be a nice match. I'd build 'em both the same way.... Nice to A/B them that way...!

I just have so many 5" snares these days!!! I need a taller metal snare. I guess he doesn't have any 6.5" bronze snares...

:(

Yeah- I'm THAT guy!!!

Dead dogs like rusty fire hydrants!!!
Posted on 13 years ago
#29
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The only deep-dish one I saw that he had left in his ebay inventory is a 6.5" x 13" that he is offering. I think the depth of the drum will make up for the missing inch in dimension. (smaller drum) It's too big to be considered in the popcorn category. 6.5" x 13" is not a bad size. An 8 lugger in that size will have tons of BARK.

John

Too many great drums to list here!

http://www.walbergandauge.com/VintageVenue.htm
Posted on 13 years ago
#30
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