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  #1  
Old 04-17-2019, 12:08 PM
vyacheslav vyacheslav is offline
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Default Which separated first, the shell or the re-ring?

.......kind of like "The chicken or the egg"?

I picked up this MIJ Pearl made blue sparkle kit for a great price. The shells are in good shape and the wrap is in great shape with very little fading (actually, these are just slightly turning a green-ish tint instead of fading but still look very good).

As is common, there is some re-ring separation from the shell. I've fixed this before, and it's pretty easy. Nothing some wood glue and spring clamps can't handle. However, in my process of gluing and clamping around the shell, the section next to the part I was clamping would make an audible "crack" and continue to separate, all the way around. I'm essentially "chasing" the separation until it gets back to where I started gluing, which will hold much better than the factory glue. This is a pain and will take time, but is not difficult.

Anyway, I wanted to enclose a few photos because to me, it looks like the shell is separating from the re-ring, rather than the other way around. A little hard to tell in the photos, but when standing above it, the re-ring seems to be perfectly round, whereas the shell seems to be contorting. It will all be fixed and glued down nicely, but it's kind of a weird phenomenon. I'm using painters tape where there is visible gap between the re-ring and inside of the shell. That way the glue stays where I want it and it doesn't run all over the inside of the shell.

In the first photo, I started gluing in-between where all the clamps are now and where the noticeable gap is around 2 o' clock. I'm going to go the opposite direction and do the large gap part last, so that everything else will be held down firmly. I'm using a metric crap ton of wood glue to make sure it really holds. The excess dried glue sands off easily, and I would want to touch up the bearing edges by sanding them anyway, so no big deal there.

Anyway, I'll look forward to getting these done, I'll just need some patience, because the other bearing edge on the bass drum is the exact same. I always thought 12 spring clamps would be enough. Turns out I could use about 40 lol!

V
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"The worst thing to happen to drums from the 60's and early 70's was the 80's!"-clubdate64
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  #2  
Old 04-17-2019, 12:39 PM
idrum4fun idrum4fun is online now
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Default Re: Which separated first, the shell or the re-ring?

Hi V!

I've had lots of vintage MIJ kits over the years and have been fortunate that I haven't had this issue! Honestly, it does look like the thin shell is separating from the rings. Nothing that glue and clamps won't fix. But, as you've mentioned, it's time consuming and takes patience! Now, go out and buy lots more clamps!

-Mark
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Old 04-18-2019, 12:10 PM
Hoppy Hoppy is offline
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Default Re: Which separated first, the shell or the re-ring?

In photo 2 and 3, it looks a it like the shell plys are beginning to delaminate/separate as well... or is that just a photo mirage?

If that is the case, I'm wondering if it would be better for your project to completely remove the re-ring (as you mentioned, it feels like your chasing the cracking glue & separation); glue and clamp the shell ply to prevent further issues; glue/reinsert/secure the re-ring, in order to have the best long-term results?
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Old 05-22-2019, 02:55 PM
Drum Jones Drum Jones is offline
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Default Re: Which separated first, the shell or the re-ring?

I have done many repairs over the years and am getting better with input from others and personal trial and error... I have found that having tons of clamps and a few beater shells to cut up and use for clamping helps. Sometimes I will put a sheet of mylar, old drum wrap, etc. to keep glue from sticking the pieces of shell I am using for clamping to the project. With thin shell drums, I have always had better luck gluing the shell first and then gluing the re-rings. Cleaning and prep of the glue points is key. Patience is a must, unless you intend on an out of round beater for your efforts. You will also find that the order in which you put on the clamps can make for success or failure. On drums out of round, I have found that cutting a scrap of wood to the correct inner diameter and wedging it where the drum has become more narrow can help, while the glue is drying. I have also found that using a piece of roof flashing, cut into a thin strip, can help get glue into tight areas, such as plies that are separating. Tape on the end where you hold will lessen the chance of getting a cut. Some of the repairs I have done have required three or more gluings, so those took three or more days of mostly waiting for glue to dry.
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Old 05-22-2019, 03:42 PM
Drum Jones Drum Jones is offline
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Default Re: Which separated first, the shell or the re-ring?

Here are a few photos of a 1942 Leedy snare project. A lot of people would have chalked this one up to a parts drum. I chose to put about 16 hours time and days of waiting for glue to dry into it. I was able to save the original wrap by being careful. That was the last thing to be put back tight. It still needs to have some lugs put back on it to be done.
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  #6  
Old 05-22-2019, 04:25 PM
grantro grantro is offline
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Cool Re: Which separated first, the shell or the re-ring?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Drum Jones View Post
Here are a few photos of a 1942 Leedy snare project. A lot of people would have chalked this one up to a parts drum. I chose to put about 16 hours time and days of waiting for glue to dry into it. I was able to save the original wrap by being careful. That was the last thing to be put back tight. It still needs to have some lugs put back on it to be done.
Nice work!!

Cheers
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1976 Ludwig Mach 4 Thermogloss 26-18-14-14sn
1978 Ludwig Stainless 22-22-18-16-14-13-12 c/w 6-8-10-12-13-14-15-16-18-20-22-24 concert toms
1975 Sonor Phonic Centennials Metallic Pewter 22-16-13-12-14sn (D506)
1971 Ludwig Classic Bowling Ball OBP 22-16-14-13
1960's Stewart Peacock Pearl 20-16-12-14sn
1980`s Ludwig Coliseum Piano Black 8x14 snare
1973 Rogers Superten 5x14 & 6.5x14 COS snares
1970`s John Grey Capri Aquamarine Sparkle 5x14 snare
1941 Ludwig & Ludwig Super 8x14 snare
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  #7  
Old 05-22-2019, 04:28 PM
grantro grantro is offline
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Cool Re: Which separated first, the shell or the re-ring?

To the OP, you are on the right track...Patience is the key and it will pay off in the end...I`m glad to see you are taking the time to repair these beautiful drums...Keep up the good work!!

Cheers
__________________
1976 Ludwig Mach 4 Thermogloss 26-18-14-14sn
1978 Ludwig Stainless 22-22-18-16-14-13-12 c/w 6-8-10-12-13-14-15-16-18-20-22-24 concert toms
1975 Sonor Phonic Centennials Metallic Pewter 22-16-13-12-14sn (D506)
1971 Ludwig Classic Bowling Ball OBP 22-16-14-13
1960's Stewart Peacock Pearl 20-16-12-14sn
1980`s Ludwig Coliseum Piano Black 8x14 snare
1973 Rogers Superten 5x14 & 6.5x14 COS snares
1970`s John Grey Capri Aquamarine Sparkle 5x14 snare
1941 Ludwig & Ludwig Super 8x14 snare
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  #8  
Old 05-22-2019, 04:29 PM
idrum4fun idrum4fun is online now
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Default Re: Which separated first, the shell or the re-ring?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Drum Jones View Post
Here are a few photos of a 1942 Leedy snare project. A lot of people would have chalked this one up to a parts drum. I chose to put about 16 hours time and days of waiting for glue to dry into it. I was able to save the original wrap by being careful. That was the last thing to be put back tight. It still needs to have some lugs put back on it to be done.
Great work, DJ!

-Mark
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