1940s Slingerland snare question

[jwfleck]

I recently got a Slingerland snare from the 40s. The model I have was
called either a "Professional" or a "Student Radio King." It's a 7" x
14" and I love the sound.
I'm having an issue with the snare cord. There's not enough space
between the rim and the flesh hoop for the cord to go slack at all. In
other words, it keeps the throw off from throwing off. (It's not an
issue with the snare bed.) I'm wondering if any others have had a drum
like this and what they did about it. I suppose I could do one of these
things:
- Set the snare wire tension where I want it and accept the fact that
the throw off doesn't really work.
- File down the flesh hoop enough for the cord to move freely. I'm
thinking I'd only have to do this on the side with the throw off. This
is what the previous owner said he did.
- Look around for a snare side head that allows for this. I assume at
point at least somebody made a snare side head for a drum like this
that had a channel or something on the flesh hoop?

(If all or none of this makes sense, I'd be happy to post a photo showing what I'm talking asbout.)

Thanks,
John Fleck

[Webmaster]

Let's see that photo, so I can get a better understanding of what you are talking about. I can picture it, but a visual would be nice.

Eye Ball

David
Webmaster

[jwfleck]

Thanks for your response. I posted 3 photos here:
http://www.jfleckdesign.com/images/sling_1.jpg
http://www.jfleckdesign.com/images/sling_2.jpg
http://www.jfleckdesign.com/images/sling_3.jpg

John

[O-Lugs]

Well, first of all, I have never seen this problem before.

I am going to venture a couple of guesses here...

First of all, go to this site: http://www.rebeats.com and ask Rob Cook if there was an original CALFSKIN head for this type of drum/hoop. Mail him the pics. It's very possible that the old calfskin head that came on this drum originally (ALL drumheads were animal skins prior to the introduction of plastic heads in the mid-50's -I think) might have had a different profile than the modern metal one like you have on the drum now. I suspect that the original calfskin might have had a quarter-rounded WOOD flesh hoop that would allow that single-flange rim to work as it was intended. Or, maybe there was some kind of a groove routed in the original flesh hoops to allow clearnace.

If it were my drum and one that I was planning on gigging with, I might just take off that original bottom rim and store it and use a more conventional version. Single flange rims ARE still available. I always think it's better to avoid taking a file to a drum that's managed to survive so long and as intact as yours. ANY "crude" alteration will greatly diminish the collectability/value. Ther ARE other ways, my friend! :)

[jwfleck]

Thanks, I'll try Rebeats.

I was actually talking about filing down the flesh hoop of the head in that area, not the rim itself. I'd never do that!

John

[O-Lugs]

Oh. That makes more sense. Sorry, I misunderstood.

[jwfleck]

Here's another bit of info. A snare identical to mine from the Slingerland 1941 catalog. Doesn't there appear to be a dip in the flesh hoop on the snare side?
http://www.jfleckdesign.com/images/sling_1941.jpg

John

P.S. Rob at Rebeats had never encountered this situation before. He suggested trying a Remo or Ludwig marching snare side head as they have less of a collar.

[Webmaster]

O.k. thanks for the pics. I would also think a number of factors regarding that single flange hoop could be at play.

They are more flexible and tend to not sit correctly over time. Also, you can change the snare chord to something much thinner.

I really like the Puresound blue wire and it is extremely durable and very thin. Some puratins prefer a white looking chord then the Puresound blue.

I have one laying around my store that I can send in an envelope if you want.

Rob is a member on this forum and has a good suggestion with the different head choice.

As suggested by O-lugs changing the hoop is also another good idea if the drum is a gigging drum.

David
Webmaster

[Pete Stoltman]

I have what appears to be the same or at least very similar drum (different finish). Anyhow I clearly see what you are talking about on your photos. On my drum the clearance is very minimal but enough to allow the throw-off to work. My snare head is a Remo Ambassador. Have you tried one of those? Sorry no photos available at this time.

[O-Lugs]

Here's another bit of info. A snare identical to mine from the Slingerland 1941 catalog. Doesn't there appear to be a dip in the flesh hoop on the snare side?
http://www.jfleckdesign.com/images/sling_1941.jpg

John

P.S. Rob at Rebeats had never encountered this situation before. He suggested trying a Remo or Ludwig marching snare side head as they have less of a collar.

I just checked my 40's-era Leedy marching snare drum. It also has an OLD calfskin head with a quarter round wooden flesh hoop and...


YES! The old wooden flesh hoop DOES have an intentionally-contoured area that allows the snare (wires, themselves, in this case) to pass through.

Thanks for your post. I learned something new as a result of it! :)

[jwfleck]

Thanks for all the input.

I just tried a Remo Ambassador on the snare side and the situation was the same.
So I went with plan A and filed down some of the hoop on the Aquarian American Vintage snare side head. That seems to have done the trick.

A lot of bother, but it really is a great-sounding drum!

Thanks - John

[O-Lugs]

Question: Aren't those American vintage heads slightly OVER-sized? I know that many of the older wrapped shells were really tight fits as far as getting a drumhead to seat well and so they started making a line that would fit better on the older wrapped shells. However, a duco finish isn't as thick as a wrapped finish, so you might check to see if that makes any difference.

But, I'm surprised Rob Cook wasn't aware of contoured bottom flesh hoops on old snare-side heads. I mean, mine was a Leedy drum and Leedy must have made ALL their old calfskin snare heads this way, I would think -couldn't have been that uncommon...but I didn't ever notice it before, either. But I'm certain now that the single-flange rim that you are having problems with would be alleviated in the most original way, by using one of those old-style flesh hoops...but if Rob is unaware of them, then maybe they are impossible to get.

Your solution sounds like it works, but just in case you ever need/want to restore it to "pristine" original condition, then the contoured wood flesh hoop is the only legit solution. If you really want to get a sense of what that drum might have sounded like when it left the factory, you have to use real calfskins and nothing else. They are completely different sounding/feeling than any synthetic head. Of course they are no way "practical" by todays working drummer's standards, but they do have a thing. You would have to have Rob contour the flesh hoop though, because you couldn't file it down after the skin is stretched or you will just tear through it. Modern heads have the plastic tucked into the flesh hoop.

[jwfleck]

They are slightly oversized. Very slightly. They're made for American drums made before 1960 ("Modern Vintage" for 1960 and after) and I had wondered if there might be something about them that would solve the problem before I got them. It fits better than the Remo I tried which I had to use more force to get on. The pinching snare cord issue with the hoop was the same with both, however.

Sure, I'd love to try calf heads. I just wish they were cheaper. I'm sure I'll treat myself someday...

John

[HowdeeDoodee]

For anyone who might be reading this thread in the future...

I had/have a 1955 Slingerland student model with stick chopper rims and I had the same problem. When I acquired the drum in the 1960's, there were plastic heads on the batter and snare sides. What I did was tie a second string around the parallel strings coming down from the strainer so that the two parallel strings were more pulled together. This permitted the two strings from being "caught" between the metal rim and the edge of the head. The method did not work great but at least it worked. The method also permitted me to loosen the snare mechanism screw enough to drop the snare down enough to completely clear the head.