Restoring Shine on Oyster Wrap

[b_james]

Hello,

This is first time on this forum. I just aquired a 1964 Ludwig black oyster kit and I'm in the process of restoring. Considering the age, the wrap is in excellent condition meening its tight, very few scatches and no extra holes or bubbling/lifting. What I want to do is to try to restore the shine. There are a few dull areas. Should I use a paste wax from an automotive shop or is there anything out there that will make these shells shine?

Also what is the best way to clean chrome that has ninor pitting. Wire buffing wheel? Steel wool?

[Bebop]

i dont know about the wrap but DO NOT use steel wool on any chrome components.

http://vintagesnaredrums.com/how_to_vintage_snare.html

that has good info for cleaning.

Make sure you post pictures!

[Sparkletone]

The good news:

I've heard these two specific automotive waxes work wonders on restoring shine to drum shells:

(1) Mothers
(2) Maguires

The bad news:

HOWEVER, I've also heard automotive waxes can cause the finish on the wraps to dry and eventually crack over the years. I have no evidence to supstantiate this, it's just something I heard recently.

They sell polishes specifically made for shining shells, though. I would suggest Trick Drum polish. I've used it on my shells and it does restore shine and without the risk that some feel automotive waxes carry.

Good luck! Wax on. Wax off!

[the_drum_dad]

i dont know about the wrap but DO NOT use steel wool on any chrome components.

http://vintagesnaredrums.com/how_to_vintage_snare.html

that has good info for cleaning.

Make sure you post pictures!


I understand about the steel wool in general, however I have had exceptional results cleaning up older chrome parts with 0000 steel wool which is the finest you can get. I would not use anything coarser than this.

Please tell me why the link says not to do this. I thought this was commonly accepted practice.

Thanks.

[Bebop]

I have to admit I do not know why steel wool should not be used, but I do know the webmaster knows alot so I just go by his word. If you would like to know you should ask the Webmaster.

[Webmaster]

Hello all!

Yes, steel wool is used and still used by many people. The problem is that if not used correctly it does ruin chrome.

In general it is better to say do not use it, since many people not familiar with it will do damage to a drum.

Especially when they use the steel wool without taking the parts off of the shell.

Unless the chrome is of the highest quality it will leave very tiny scratches in the chrome and in the end do damage. Some times it is hard to see and needless to say the damage is done even if it is hard to see.

For sure the chrome on the Japanese stencil kits will get ruined since it is such a lower quality.

So in the end even 4-ott steel will can cause damage and it is probably better not to use it unless the item is loaded with rust.

I would say use it very carefully and on a limited basis and try other methods first prior to going to that step.

It is also not as commonly accepted as it used to be and many vintage people refrain from using it.

David
Webmaster

[gutenberg]

I've had great luck with Novus #1 Plastic Cleaner followed by Novus #2 Plastic Polish

[Ckroush]

Aluminum foil works great too. I took a 5-piece BMP Slingerland set from disgusting to mint condition by using the aluminum foil on all the chrome. Just use the shiny side and dip it in water. The dirt comes off as a black liquid, just rinse that and dry. The chrome looks brand new. There were absolutely no scratches either. The wrap was in excellent condition and still is, but i'd love to find a great product to bring the shine out

[kentuckyboy]

I have good luck restoring a WMP Ludwig kit by wet sanding the finish, then clear coating with a good enamal. The wet sanding seems to be the only way to clear some of the yellowing inherant in the aging of these kits.

[the_drum_dad]

Hello all!

Yes, steel wool is used and still used by many people. The problem is that if not used correctly it does ruin chrome.

In general it is better to say do not use it, since many people not familiar with it will do damage to a drum.

Especially when they use the steel wool without taking the parts off of the shell.

Unless the chrome is of the highest quality it will leave very tiny scratches in the chrome and in the end do damage. Some times it is hard to see and needless to say the damage is done even if it is hard to see.

For sure the chrome on the Japanese stencil kits will get ruined since it is such a lower quality.

So in the end even 4-ott steel will can cause damage and it is probably better not to use it unless the item is loaded with rust.

I would say use it very carefully and on a limited basis and try other methods first prior to going to that step.

It is also not as commonly accepted as it used to be and many vintage people refrain from using it.

David
Webmaster

Thanks for the reply. Much appreciated.

[scovit]

This is what I would recommend. comes from the high-end auto detail trade. It's great! See my pic.

http://www.zainobros.com

[MarkD]

This is what I would recommend. comes from the high-end auto detail trade. It's great! See my pic.

http://www.zainobros.com
No doubt about it, Zaino is the Sh#t, but the picture of the particular Zaino polish shown (Actually a Poly sealant) basically contains nothing for bringing up the shine, or I should more properly say restoring a shine on dulled surfaces.

The Novus polishes would be a better starting point in removing haze, dulling, and very minor scratches-swirls. I'd even try something after the Novus such as 3M Imperial Hand Glaze, or Meguiars #7 Glaze, or #9 Swirl remover.

If possible, your best results will come from carefully removing all chrome hardware, otherwise, you will see your efforts wasted, in that you'll never be able to properly polish-buff the areas next to the lugs, and other hardware. Of course, don't go so far, and start ripping off badges, unless you wish to destroy the vintage value of these drums.

Then as a last step, yes, then the Zaino will be the ultimate finishing touch. Apply, and let it sit a very long time (1/2 hour-1 hour). The longer, the better for the Zaino to cure to the finish.
I've used this Zaino on my expensive. pristine Fender Bass Guitars, and this stuff is also the cat's meow on items like museum quality Dust Covers for high quality Turntables.

As for the chrome, try to avoid Steel Wool at all costs, unless the Drums were resurrected from the Titanic. Use something like a high quality liquid Chrome Polish, or a paste such as Flitz, 200MPH, or perhaps one from Mothers, or Meguiars. hope this helps, Mark

[3-ply_guy]

I have used automotive grade 2000 grit wet sanding liquid (with all hardware removed) with a small electric buffer then rinsed it and used Novus plastic polish. It removes the filth and grime and the Novus brings back the shine. Just don't stay one one spot too long, it works great... even on WMP!Yes Sir

[Mike T]

For your Chrome i have tried alot of stuff but this product is simply brilliant on removing oxidation and restoring a almost perfect shine and luster..

"Dimond Brite" Truck Box Polish Restores shine to aluminum,brass,chrome,and stainless steel made by Better built..

and for restoring shine on vintage drums i use fuller brush appliance cleaner and wax,#754 it too is simply great.. and it has no armour all type chemicals which will make your drum wrap brittle....ever wonder why your dash cracked ?? stay away from any waxes that do not dry clear .. have fun

[bill young]

I have used automotive grade 2000 grit wet sanding liquid (with all hardware removed) with a small electric buffer then rinsed it and used Novus plastic polish. It removes the filth and grime and the Novus brings back the shine. Just don't stay one one spot too long, it works great... even on WMP!Yes Sir

This is right on the money! I have a buddy who's dad owns a bodyshop and I have done this same thing....a sander with a super fine grade paper -this is what they do with your car too. Then take it to the buffing wheel and it shines like the day it was wrapped. Naturally, this only works with wrapped kits. But it works great. AND yes...don't hold the drum on the buffing wheel too long - it will burn

[wayne]

Correct me if im wrong.If you polish up a 40 yr old kit to look new,do you not de-value that drum from its vintage aging process?...Im of the opinion you leave these old drums to fade away,sort of speak.

[bill young]

Correct me if im wrong.If you polish up a 40 yr old kit to look new,do you not de-value that drum from its vintage aging process?...Im of the opinion you leave these old drums to fade away,sort of speak.

Hmmmmm never thought of that...guess I need to park my 69 camaro out to let oxidation take over - NOT!

[wayne]

Sorry....I thought this was a drum forumViolin

[dlshore]

Question for the wet sanders. I just got a WMP Slingerland mid '60's club set that is yellowed. After reading this thread, I am intrigued by the possibility of seeing it be white again. How smart (dumb?) would it be for a first time wet sander with no experience to tackle this as their first project?

I just stumbled onto this forum. It is great! Lots of really useful info. Thanks all.

[fender22087]

what is wet sanding?

[Bebop]

Question for the wet sanders. I just got a WMP Slingerland mid '60's club set that is yellowed. After reading this thread, I am intrigued by the possibility of seeing it be white again. How smart (dumb?) would it be for a first time wet sander with no experience to tackle this as their first project?

I just stumbled onto this forum. It is great! Lots of really useful info. Thanks all.
It would be beyond stupid to wet sand a wrap, even more so
if its your first time wet sanding. Enjoy the yellow WMP...

[JohnG]

Aluminum foil works great too. I took a 5-piece BMP Slingerland set from disgusting to mint condition by using the aluminum foil on all the chrome. Just use the shiny side and dip it in water. The dirt comes off as a black liquid, just rinse that and dry. The chrome looks brand new. There were absolutely no scratches either. The wrap was in excellent condition and still is, but i'd love to find a great product to bring the shine out

Would this work on the shell and lugs of a snare, or only the rims. I'd hate to scratch up the chrome finish on the shell.

[dlshore]

I have done one or two dumb things in my life, but being even more so than beyond stupid is way too much for even someone like me. The wrap stays as is. I am sure I will learn to love it.
Thanks,
David

[Poorsh30]

Sorry to chime in, but wet sending (x body guy) is just a very fine grit (wet) grade sandpaper, which makes the sanding process more smooth when water is added. It also lets you constantly rinse the area to keep it clean of sanding grit.

[the_drum_dad]

The wet sanded finish will be dull and matte. Wet sanding is not intended to bring out shine but to take off the top layer of oxidation on painted surfaces to prepare them for additional paint/topcoat.

After wet sanding you will still need to restore the shine. An additional product + buffing will do that.

As far as buffing out a car's finish....it is not done with sand paper but with a buffer and rubbing compound which is a wax with a very fine abrasive in it. You are kind of doing both steps noted above in one process.

Never tried any of this on wraps. I try to buy drums with wraps in the condition I like and preserve from there.

[drummerfish]

this may be out of reach for some,but it works the best.novus plastic polish is most commonly used,but i use the buffing machine at work to buff out scuffs and scratches on drum wraps.we use it to buff gloss finishes,but it works great for wraps and acrylics too.sometimes even drum heads(and scuffed and scratched cd's and dvd's) i don't know what the rpm is on the machine,but its really fast.i do know its not as fast as a metal buffing machine,which is a higher rpm.

there's 2 wheels: the hard wheel and the soft-or fine wheel.you use the fine wheel only.apply the fine wheel compound and buff the drum(with everything taken off the drum of course) if you don't want to take off the badge,you just got to make sure to buff around it.if you have any cracked or lifting wrap areas around the lug holes,trim them first so the wheel doesn't grab and either damage the wrap or so it doesn't pull the drum down and away from you.if your seam is kifting,or you want to make sure the wheel will not lift the seam,repair the seam or,since the wheel's rotation is towards you,buff the drum with the seam pointing down.as you lift up and down on the drum,the seam won't get caught under the wheel.

start buffing lightly just to get a feel for the wheel(at this point i assume someone would find a friend with a buffing machine)generally,you'll see quick results on lite scuffs.the leavier the damage,the harder you need to buff those areas.

this will generally bring back the shine of the wrap.i just wrapped a snare using old out of print wrap that had no protective covering.it was all scuffed up and dirty.i wrapped the drum first(did not drill for holes) and buffed the wrap with no problems.there was some old tape residue as well.for that i took acutone and LIGHTLY pulled it off with a rag.each peoblem has a seperate required fix,so be caucious.

as for yellowing,i never buffed wrap that has been yellowing.vintage drums (say 60's and back) generally yellows due to the way the material was made then.anything from the 70's and up should be a little easier to buff out yellowing based on the way wrap has been made since then.

if you can't find someone with a full size buffing machine,you can use a smaller buffing wheel that you can mount on your drill press or a bench grinder.in which case the wheels are easyto take on and off.the width of the wheels are alot smaller,but atleast its something.i also heard a guy use a hand held buffing machine(for cars)that's another option.good luck

[ludwigvondrumcrazy]

When it comes to mechanical buffing or polishing I would urge caution for those not familiar with such methods. I do things the old fashioned way, by hand and I'm glad I do because what happened to a guy I know would more than likely have happened to me...........

He was using a buffer on a 1960's WMP Wrap when one of the fibers of the wheel, or a string off of, something, caught an edge of the Wrap in a Lug Bolt Hole and that was the end of that wrap. Ripped a good chunk of the wrap right off!

The sad part of this is that he hasn't learned his lesson and still continues to try and prove that he can remove yellowing from WMP. So far he's batting zero on the yellowing but is batting 1000 on doing some serious damage to some nice Vintage Drums. Even without ripping the wrap he does some major gouging and always ends up with an uneven finish.................

I've always had good luck restoring the shine to wraps, or lacquers, with Flitz, using the Liquid Version. I find the Paste, which is stronger by the way, tends to get squished into areas where I don't want it while the liquid soaks into my applicator and is easier to control. I do prefer the stronger Paste on Metal Rims where it matters not how well I control where it goes..........

LVDC

[del]

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ckroush
Aluminum foil works great too. I took a 5-piece BMP Slingerland set from disgusting to mint condition by using the aluminum foil on all the chrome. Just use the shiny side and dip it in water. The dirt comes off as a black liquid, just rinse that and dry. The chrome looks brand new. There were absolutely no scratches either. The wrap was in excellent condition and still is, but i'd love to find a great product to bring the shine out

QUOTE=JohnG]Would this work on the shell and lugs of a snare, or only the rims. I'd hate to scratch up the chrome finish on the shell.[/QUOTE]

Plating in reverse.. if you add a little baking or washing soda to the water you will increase the efficency..the difference in metals is creating a gavanic current , the foil is - the hardware + the oxides are being plated to the foil
This is the design behind products such as Metal brite
http://www.metalbrite.net/store/1770060/page/2