Speed King restore

[FatherTime]

I purchased a bunch of drum stuff and one of the things that came with it was a Speed King. Has anyone ever repaired one with this kind of wear? The hinges at the base of the pedal are elongated. Also up where the pedal connects to the striker arm. It had a cotter pin holding it in place. Can those elongations be repaired? What would I use to replace the missing pin/rivet where the cotter pin was? The wing nut that was holding the beater in place doesn't look original eitner. I tried to take close up, but my camera can't take too close so it's a little blurry, but you can still see the elongation. Any help is appreciated. thanks,
James

[MIKEY777]

I purchased a bunch of drum stuff and one of the things that came with it was a Speed King. Has anyone ever repaired one with this kind of wear? The hinges at the base of the pedal are elongated. Also up where the pedal connects to the striker arm. It had a cotter pin holding it in place. Can those elongations be repaired? What would I use to replace the missing pin/rivet where the cotter pin was? The wing nut that was holding the beater in place doesn't look original eitner. I tried to take close up, but my camera can't take too close so it's a little blurry, but you can still see the elongation. Any help is appreciated. thanks,
James
Hi james, i have restored many of these pedal'sThe best way to fix the elongated hole's on both part's is with a steel slave any hard wear store should have them..the missing pin at beater again same hardwear store should have them,or email me your address i will send you one..As far as the wing-nut it looks to be to short but is the right one..Mikey

[FatherTime]

Hi james, i have restored many of these pedal'sThe best way to fix the elongated hole's on both part's is with a steel slave any hard wear store should have them..the missing pin at beater again same hardwear store should have them,or email me your address i will send you one..As far as the wing-nut it looks to be to short but is the right one..Mikey

Hi Mikey, I don't know what a steel slave is, can you post a pic of it on the pedal? The wing nut for the beater is stripped out. Would you suggest using a small tension rod like they do on hardware. My iron cobra uses one to secure the beater for that or can I get one from ludwig still?

[jonnistix]

Hi Mikey, I don't know what a steel slave is, can you post a pic of it on the pedal? The wing nut for the beater is stripped out. Would you suggest using a small tension rod like they do on hardware. My iron cobra uses one to secure the beater for that or can I get one from ludwig still?
I think he means a steel sleeve...

[FatherTime]

I think he means a steel sleeve...

LOL. OK, I got it!

[FatherTime]

I think he means a steel sleeve...

LOL. OK, I got it!

[SkyDog75]

Ludwig still sells new Speed King pedals, so replacement parts are actually pretty easy to come by.

The wing screw holding the beater shaft in place is part # P2791. drumsonsale.com lists a whole bunch of Ludwig parts on their web site and they've got that wing screw for $1.40.

Replacement linkages come with a replacement rivet and nylon bushing, so that would take care of the cotter pin. The part number for the linkage is P1210A and drumsonsale.com has it for $5.42. Or if you've got a nearby hardware store with a good nuts & bolts selection, you can bring in your pedal to see if you can find a pin or rivet that fits.

The floor plate is the one thing here that seems like it could be problematic. Mikey's suggestion for using a steel sleeve may be the best easy fix without resorting to buying a new floor plate. Since Ludwig sells the floor plate and footboard as a single item (P1204A), it costs roughly what another used Speed King would cost you.

[FatherTime]

Ludwig still sells new Speed King pedals, so replacement parts are actually pretty easy to come by.

The wing screw holding the beater shaft in place is part # P2791. drumsonsale.com lists a whole bunch of Ludwig parts on their web site and they've got that wing screw for $1.40.

Replacement linkages come with a replacement rivet and nylon bushing, so that would take care of the cotter pin. The part number for the linkage is P1210A and drumsonsale.com has it for $5.42. Or if you've got a nearby hardware store with a good nuts & bolts selection, you can bring in your pedal to see if you can find a pin or rivet that fits.

The floor plate is the one thing here that seems like it could be problematic. Mikey's suggestion for using a steel sleeve may be the best easy fix without resorting to buying a new floor plate. Since Ludwig sells the floor plate and footboard as a single item (P1204A), it costs roughly what another used Speed King would cost you.

Thanks SkyDog. I will take a look at that website. I love this forum.

[MastroSnare]

... The wing screw holding the beater shaft in place is part # P2791. drumsonsale.com lists a whole bunch of Ludwig parts on their web site and they've got that wing screw for $1.40...

Is that wing bolt the original "Mickey Mouse" design or is it "new and improved"?

[SkyDog75]

Is that wing bolt the original "Mickey Mouse" design or is it "new and improved"?

I wouldn't know without placing an order myself. I'd guess it's whatever comes on a new Speed King and I don't have one of those handy to check.

[MIKEY777]

I think he means a steel sleeve...
Funny post--Yes it's a steel sleeve it was very late last night when i posted my reply....Mikey

[FatherTime]

Funny post--Yes it's a steel sleeve it was very late last night when i posted my reply....Mikey

Hey Mikey, Do you have any pics of a pedal with the sleeve already installed? I'd like to see what it looks like.

[MIKEY777]

Hey Mikey, Do you have any pics of a pedal with the sleeve already installed? I'd like to see what it looks like.
Yes i do just email me i will send them out to you on the next few days..Mikey

[bhawk]

The steel sleeve idea to fix the elongated hole is the best. But, I have fixed a couple speedkings with the same problem by welding the hole round again. Basically, you find a piece of copper tubing the same diameter as the pin, which I think is 1\4 inch from memory. You fit the tubing into the elongated hole and use a mig welder to weld around the tubing to make the hole round again. The copper tubing is just a "form" of sorts, to prevent the weld from filling the center of the hole. Or you could just weld the elongated hole closed with your mig welder, and then drill an new hole for the heel hinge pin.
but again, that sleeve would be the simplest.
The elongated hole is common on those speed kings. No reason to throw them away.
By the way, you have a good one, because it is the narrow hoop model, made likely prior to 1975. These narrow hoopers have the best internals.

[LandenLarry]

hey james, the longated holes would be an easy fix. i have access to a welder and possibly the sleeves. lets fix that thing it would be easy. i am pretty positve i could fix thing that and make it look good. i have never done a speed king, but i have done a lot of metal work.

[FatherTime]

hey james, the longated holes would be an easy fix. i have access to a welder and possibly the sleeves. lets fix that thing it would be easy. i am pretty positve i could fix thing that and make it look good. i have never done a speed king, but i have done a lot of metal work.

Sounds like a good idea, I have it all apart right now and you could take the part with you. Hope you can swing by the house this weekend.

[FatherTime]

The steel sleeve idea to fix the elongated hole is the best. But, I have fixed a couple speedkings with the same problem by welding the hole round again. Basically, you find a piece of copper tubing the same diameter as the pin, which I think is 14 inch from memory. You fit the tubing into the elongated hole and use a mig welder to weld around the tubing to make the hole round again. The copper tubing is just a "form" of sorts, to prevent the weld from filling the center of the hole. Or you could just weld the elongated hole closed with your mig welder, and then drill an new hole for the heel hinge pin.
but again, that sleeve would be the simplest.
The elongated hole is common on those speed kings. No reason to throw them away.
By the way, you have a good one, because it is the narrow hoop model, made likely prior to 1975. These narrow hoopers have the best internals.

Thanks for the info Bhawk. I will see about doing the weld idea.